Trad Shoes

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Trad Shoes

Post by absolutsugarsmurf » Thu May 22, 2008 10:18 am

What shoes do you wear when you climb all around trad?

In the red I find it is nice to have a shoe that edges and smears equally well. For jamming, I want a little extra rubber on the toe box. Currently I climb in Muira's, which are awesome except for the price ($150 and still going up I hear) and the durability, which is the worst I've ever seen.

Now I'm looking to switch shoes. What's your opinion? I've been looking at the Scarpa Techno or ant Anasazi Verde. Ever use them?

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Post by Rags » Thu May 22, 2008 10:34 am

I'm in a similar situation. I want to try the techno but who has them locally? no one.

Pgall's has the miura for $129 I think--have you looked at the testarossa? It's price point is way higher though...

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Post by der uber » Thu May 22, 2008 11:05 am

The verdes are so far so good. Felt really really tight and I was worried but they got comfy fast.

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Post by anticlmber » Thu May 22, 2008 12:37 pm

what is all around trad??? like traverses or something.

the mythos/mocasyms sized comfortable. if i know it's an edgy climb more than a crack i.e. lizards dare or strick9 i'd go with muira.

as for the testarossa.....if you like downt -turned toes in cracks go for it. ouch.
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Post by Winterstorm » Thu May 22, 2008 1:00 pm

I tried to find the Techno's...'course no luck, so I got the 5.10 pitons and so far can't come up with a single complaint. Comfy all day, sticky as glue and the entire toe box is covered with the same rubber as the sole. Very defined/stiff edge and the toe box sort of wedges on top which makes it easy to get into narrower cracks. I got my street shoe size and am glad I did as they have not stretched at all. They are a little wider at the ball of the foot than others I tried on, but I have a wide foot so it's a plus.
My son has the Gambits which smear a little better, being not as stiff and work well in cracks, they are a bit narrow around the ball of the foot for me. The couple of times I tried them they seemed to edge ok
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Post by rjackson » Thu May 22, 2008 1:01 pm

Anasazi lace-ups. I have a pair of Verdes that I haven't even pulled out of the box that I sized slightly larger for longer days of climbing.

I'm with anti-... I had/have a pair of Testarosas and they're OK for classic red, overhangin' jug pullin'; but trad? Ouch, and ouch again.
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Post by Myke Dronez » Thu May 22, 2008 1:54 pm

They've got the older model anasazi lace-ups @ sierra trading post for 75$, decent size selection I believe.
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Post by Wes » Thu May 22, 2008 2:42 pm

I have been mostly wearing my Testarosas for cracks the last couple years. Murias before that. Will also just wear my warm up shoes (katana or evolv) sometimes as well.
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Post by KD » Thu May 22, 2008 4:02 pm

old pair of mythos or my real old pair of aces

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Post by RRO » Thu May 22, 2008 4:25 pm

mythos for all day long varied routes. muiras for harder shorter stuff. but lately i have been using evolve. they make a wide varity of shoes, very very cool people and cheap. i like the defys for a good all around shoe. they are a velcro model which i usually do not like on trad but these hold well and have decent support for tiny features and smearing when the crack just doesnt work. they are black and that sucks balls for long sunny routes. who ever thought black/dark shoes were a good idea should have a nut shot for sure. they have a gray lace up which i cant rem the name on to save my life but they work well for .75 or so cracks and up.

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Post by p0bray01 » Thu May 22, 2008 5:04 pm

Well I don't know what size of crack your climbing but I tend to climb hands through chimney sizes...with the occaisonal finger crack in there (I try and avoid those) and I like 5.10 Piton. They dont feel as supportive as the Muiras' (which I climb with as well) and In my opinion lack micro edging power...but for a loooonnggg day of moderate trad they have been great. The rubber wraps ALL the way around the toe and (I have a large foot btw so this may be irrelevent but....) I can jam some fist cracks that feel like hand cracks. Also Heel-Toeing in offwidths has been surprisingly good! Probably due to thier sticky rubber. OVERALL I am more of a LaSportiva fan...but in this area I like the Piton.....the other option is the Tradmaster from LaSportiva...never worn them but heard good things about 'em!

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Post by anticlmber » Thu May 22, 2008 9:29 pm

oh and the megas are really good to if you can find them. they edge, smear, and protect the ankle.
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Post by 512OW » Thu May 22, 2008 9:32 pm

Whatever happens to be on my feet.
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Post by kidney_dave » Fri May 23, 2008 4:28 am

red chili mescalitos....

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Post by RRO » Fri May 23, 2008 5:00 am

512OW wrote:I roll with who ever will pay to have their logo on my feet. If you would like to purchase space please send all inquiries to my secretary, pigsnuts.

i guess sponsorship is like crack--a little wouldnt do it so a little got more and more just trying to get a little better say a little better than before

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