Caver's, alternate finish?

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
User avatar
kato
Blade Master
Posts: 884
Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2002 8:54 am

Caver's, alternate finish?

Post by kato » Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:14 am

Has anyone ever done the 'direct' finish to caver's? I.e., instead of going through to the other side at the top of the first pitch, continue straight up through the chimney? I watched someone do it this weekend and it was horrible and fascinating. I thought they were going to become a permanent placement.
No chalkbag since 1995.

pkananen
Poser
Poser
Posts: 368
Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:20 pm
Location: cinci

Post by pkananen » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:09 pm

Yes, I've done it in March, and there was ice in parts of the chimney. I had to exhale completely to move a few inches at a time. Took about 15 minutes. I'm 6'1, about 180. But it was fun when I was done. It sucked at the time.

User avatar
ahab
Star Trek Kid
Posts: 1024
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2007 1:36 pm
Location: up above it

Post by ahab » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:15 pm

i think i did it saturday. i'm not sure tho, the beta on here and in the guide book is confusing. when you/the guidebook say, "go through to the other side" do you mean in a hallucinogenic, metaphorical way? if so, you should be advised to bring your own treats as none are provided pre-climb.
buy the Ticket take the Ride

User avatar
SCIN
BANNED
Posts: 4981
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 9:19 am
Location: Lexington, KY

Post by SCIN » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:32 pm

I've done it. It's scary and I thought I was going to get stuck.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio

User avatar
ynot
Trad Grandaddy
Posts: 6431
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 9:02 pm
Location: the corner of Walk and Don't Walk
Contact:

Post by ynot » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:50 pm

it's been soloed that way too. wasn't me.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

flip
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 10:12 am

Post by flip » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:55 pm

Yes, it was really tight.

pru
Twisted Sister
Posts: 350
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 4:08 pm
Location: in your shirt
Contact:

Post by pru » Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:06 pm

pffff, Caver's is not tight. Born Again Christian is tight. I dare you.
climbing is dumb

~ Sandy

dipsi
Hoochy Momma
Posts: 4232
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 5:54 pm
Location: in my first childhood missing Amber and Denny

Post by dipsi » Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:40 pm

ynot wrote:it's been soloed that way too. wasn't me.
Was too! :P
What I love about running is you can meditate while running. It's a peaceful place.

Sister Mary Elizabeth Lloyd, Runs marathons to raise money and awareness about children orphaned by AIDS

Myke Dronez
Lame Wade
Lame Wade
Posts: 463
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:52 pm
Location: Down in it

Post by Myke Dronez » Mon Jun 09, 2008 2:38 pm

Gave me no problems but I weigh < 140, if anything was sticking it was my harness...

ahab, I think if identification skills are honed, you will find plenty of pre climb treats scattered amongst the leaf litter and rotten wood. :shock:
The only escape is up.

User avatar
kato
Blade Master
Posts: 884
Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2002 8:54 am

Post by kato » Mon Jun 09, 2008 2:42 pm

Ahab;
You literally cross from the south side of the ridge to the north. I crawled back into the crack at the first anchor and searched for about 10 minutes to find the passage, you have to crawl through it. On the plus side, it's nice and cool.
No chalkbag since 1995.

wolfman
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2003 7:21 pm
Location: Cincinnati

Post by wolfman » Mon Jun 09, 2008 6:24 pm

I did it with a buddy, my wife and my dad and it wasn't too bad. They all got through the real tight spot but I just went out more towards the front of the wall (away from the middle) and it was easy and I had plenty of room. My buddy went stright through the real tight spot though and I couldn't fit, so I just unclipped and climbed to the top and let my wife deal with getting the gear. We also had another guy with us though who started crying because he got stuck, so whatever. I didn't think it was that bad and neither did my dad and that was his first and only time climbing.

FujManiac
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2007 7:36 pm
Location: tooo far from the Red.
Contact:

Post by FujManiac » Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:19 pm

do you really need a double rope to rappel or is there a way around that?

Danny
Ghost Climber
Posts: 1088
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 3:20 pm
Location: Bloomington
Contact:

Post by Danny » Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:32 pm

there are many ways around that. it's fun to rap into the chimney and do the squeeze. you can drop your harness just before the squeeze for more pleasure.

CLIMBTRAD
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 171
Joined: Fri May 16, 2008 10:57 am
Location: clarksville in

Post by CLIMBTRAD » Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:42 pm

we have done the direct finish had to take off helmet my chin and back of head touch both walls no pro. but easy
Rebolting the RED one stainless steel glue in bolt at a time!!

User avatar
Ascentionist
Dream Catcher
Posts: 1081
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 5:23 pm
Location: Fifteen minutes from Martin's Fork
Contact:

Post by Ascentionist » Wed Jun 11, 2008 10:11 am

I followed Steve Freas up it eons ago. He soloed it.

We rapped down through that slot and I've used it as my Tower rappel ever since. In fact, it's my favorite rappel in the Red. You're completely free hanging once you get free of hte chimney and you're way up there.

You can do it with a 60m for sure.
There is no TEAM in I

Post Reply