Caver's, alternate finish?

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Caver's, alternate finish?

Post by kato » Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:14 am

Has anyone ever done the 'direct' finish to caver's? I.e., instead of going through to the other side at the top of the first pitch, continue straight up through the chimney? I watched someone do it this weekend and it was horrible and fascinating. I thought they were going to become a permanent placement.
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Post by pkananen » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:09 pm

Yes, I've done it in March, and there was ice in parts of the chimney. I had to exhale completely to move a few inches at a time. Took about 15 minutes. I'm 6'1, about 180. But it was fun when I was done. It sucked at the time.

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Post by ahab » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:15 pm

i think i did it saturday. i'm not sure tho, the beta on here and in the guide book is confusing. when you/the guidebook say, "go through to the other side" do you mean in a hallucinogenic, metaphorical way? if so, you should be advised to bring your own treats as none are provided pre-climb.
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Post by SCIN » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:32 pm

I've done it. It's scary and I thought I was going to get stuck.
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Post by ynot » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:50 pm

it's been soloed that way too. wasn't me.
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Post by flip » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:55 pm

Yes, it was really tight.

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Post by pru » Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:06 pm

pffff, Caver's is not tight. Born Again Christian is tight. I dare you.
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Post by dipsi » Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:40 pm

ynot wrote:it's been soloed that way too. wasn't me.
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Post by Myke Dronez » Mon Jun 09, 2008 2:38 pm

Gave me no problems but I weigh < 140, if anything was sticking it was my harness...

ahab, I think if identification skills are honed, you will find plenty of pre climb treats scattered amongst the leaf litter and rotten wood. :shock:
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Post by kato » Mon Jun 09, 2008 2:42 pm

You literally cross from the south side of the ridge to the north. I crawled back into the crack at the first anchor and searched for about 10 minutes to find the passage, you have to crawl through it. On the plus side, it's nice and cool.
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Post by wolfman » Mon Jun 09, 2008 6:24 pm

I did it with a buddy, my wife and my dad and it wasn't too bad. They all got through the real tight spot but I just went out more towards the front of the wall (away from the middle) and it was easy and I had plenty of room. My buddy went stright through the real tight spot though and I couldn't fit, so I just unclipped and climbed to the top and let my wife deal with getting the gear. We also had another guy with us though who started crying because he got stuck, so whatever. I didn't think it was that bad and neither did my dad and that was his first and only time climbing.

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Post by FujManiac » Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:19 pm

do you really need a double rope to rappel or is there a way around that?

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Post by Danny » Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:32 pm

there are many ways around that. it's fun to rap into the chimney and do the squeeze. you can drop your harness just before the squeeze for more pleasure.

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Post by CLIMBTRAD » Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:42 pm

we have done the direct finish had to take off helmet my chin and back of head touch both walls no pro. but easy
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Post by Ascentionist » Wed Jun 11, 2008 10:11 am

I followed Steve Freas up it eons ago. He soloed it.

We rapped down through that slot and I've used it as my Tower rappel ever since. In fact, it's my favorite rappel in the Red. You're completely free hanging once you get free of hte chimney and you're way up there.

You can do it with a 60m for sure.
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