Fall Trad tick list

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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ynp1
still a dumbass
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Post by ynp1 » Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:02 am

here comes batman looks sicky... ill have to go look at it sometime...
I don't have haters, I have fans in denial.

Huggybone
Ninja Warrior
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Post by Huggybone » Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:25 am

Sicky? it looks like a 5.6
Sack up folks, its only 5.11
"Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water."

anticlmber
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Post by anticlmber » Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:51 am

i though 52 and ray did that thing a few years back. i know i saw a pic of hampton squeezed in there at some point.
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512OW
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Post by 512OW » Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:55 pm

Nah. I fell off with my hand over the top. I broke off the only hold in the flared section, and couldn't see a thing cuz I was covered in sand. You could crimp the inch deep toprope marks at the top, but I had ethics back then...

Its kind of a chosspile... or I'd have gone back. Just not worth the hike...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
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anticlmber
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Post by anticlmber » Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:18 pm

ethics...... i'm glad you got those taken care of.
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Danny
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Post by Danny » Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:04 am

Somewhere I was thinking that was supposed to be a good hike and like a tourist trail. Is the hike any good? I was thinking of hitting up those 5.3s, for cereal.

Huggybone
Ninja Warrior
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Post by Huggybone » Tue Aug 26, 2008 3:08 am

The hike is indeed good. Not quite as pretty as hiking to wall of denial, but prettier than most hikes.
"Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water."

anticlmber
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Post by anticlmber » Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:09 am

top of the staircase and that whole ridge is really nice.
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captain static
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Post by captain static » Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:04 am

512OW wrote: You could crimp the inch deep toprope marks at the top, but I had ethics back then...
Those aren't toprope marks, they are grooves from rappellers pulling the rope. It is really too bad what rapellers and tourons have done to this area since the FS bought the farm at the mouth of Gladie Creek and built the visitors center, etc. The sand is from increased erosion along the top of the ridge from overuse. There was also a forest fire up there a few years back.

It didn't used to be that way when the farm was there and there was limited parking and access.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh

JB
Maynard G. Krebs
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Post by JB » Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:26 am

Baxters
Minor Dihedral on Haystack
North Ridge of Steeple Peak

That's about all i'll have time for before winter hits, then it'll be some prime backcountry skiing in the winds and hoback and teton pass.
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]

L Day
Olds Cool
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Post by L Day » Tue Aug 26, 2008 3:58 pm

How about the first 11 to be onsighted in the Red? Easy approach, fun climbing, spectacular position, good rock, few ascents.

Wolf
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Post by Wolf » Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:10 pm

It's on my list. So are ToP and Last Day. But the list is very, very long, my time is getting shorter, and the tendinitis in my wrist hasn't completely healed yet.
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512OW
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Post by 512OW » Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:42 pm

captain static wrote:
512OW wrote: You could crimp the inch deep toprope marks at the top, but I had ethics back then...
Those aren't toprope marks, they are grooves from rappellers pulling the rope. It is really too bad what rapellers and tourons have done to this area since the FS bought the farm at the mouth of Gladie Creek and built the visitors center, etc. The sand is from increased erosion along the top of the ridge from overuse. There was also a forest fire up there a few years back.

It didn't used to be that way when the farm was there and there was limited parking and access.
Haha... no, the sand was from the inside of the flare. Every inch of rock I touched fell apart onto my face. Its a water runoff....

The marks on top of Here Comes Batman are different from the marks rappellers leave. Go back and look.

I do know some guy... you know him Captain... from Rockquest years ago who was workin it on TR. My bet is that those marks are from that, and the UCMC TR'd there too, right?
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com

Danny
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Post by Danny » Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:33 pm

Which 11 is that Larry? Cause one of these days I'm gonna go to the red and climb something any maybe I'll climb that, hehe.

captain static
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Post by captain static » Wed Aug 27, 2008 6:56 am

512OW wrote:Haha... no, the sand was from the inside of the flare. Every inch of rock I touched fell apart onto my face. Its a water runoff....

The marks on top of Here Comes Batman are different from the marks rappellers leave. Go back and look.

I do know some guy... you know him Captain... from Rockquest years ago who was workin it on TR. My bet is that those marks are from that, and the UCMC TR'd there too, right?
The last person before you that I had goaded to get on it was Will Stites from Miami U and that had to be in the early to mid 90's. He attempted it once on lead and then we both gave it a TR burn. Someone I know from RQ may have been working it on TR but it wasn't something I was aware of? The UCMC TR'ed the easier Staircase Wall section.

When Stites & I were on it I don't remember it as being that sandy. Perhaps the touron impacts have increased the volume of runoff that in turn has eroded the surface patina of the rock?
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh

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