Just wondering...

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
User avatar
p0bray01
Lame Wade
Lame Wade
Posts: 482
Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 4:05 pm
Location: The Crossroads of Life
Contact:

Post by p0bray01 » Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:14 am

Ynot speaks of wisdom again...I like spord. lol
"The Mountains are my church and climbing is how I worship" - Tommy Caldwell

Sandman
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 60
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:42 pm
Location: Nomad

Post by Sandman » Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:24 am

Captain: i like the triple P, but i prefer Speed Reducers (1or2 really shitty pieces of gear above a shitty piece, to lessen the force.)
Horatio.... thats a good point, but only if its a 5.12 *trad* climber, theres alot of people who can climb some 5.12 sport routes who would have a difficult time with the mental and physical aspects of placing gear on lead even on a 5.9 trad route. But i hear yah.
Its all about Style....

Horatio Felacio
highly skilled professional
Posts: 3378
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: under the sea

Post by Horatio Felacio » Tue Dec 30, 2008 10:35 am

Sandman wrote:Captain: i like the triple P, but i prefer Speed Reducers (1or2 really shitty pieces of gear above a shitty piece, to lessen the force.)
Horatio.... thats a good point, but only if its a 5.12 *trad* climber, theres alot of people who can climb some 5.12 sport routes who would have a difficult time with the mental and physical aspects of placing gear on lead even on a 5.9 trad route. But i hear yah.
yeah, that's what i meant.

also, i miss you and want you deep inside me.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast

Crankmas
Fred Garvin, male prostitute
Posts: 3965
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 1:24 pm
Location: Winchester, KY

Post by Crankmas » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:17 am

just call it as it is- that thin seam at Pebble was worked until Funhog linked it, we used slider type nuts and just left them and basically worked it as a roped boulder problem each sess, then removed the gear to go drink beer- 5.11 thin seams weren't the norm for us back then so a pink-point FA seemed casual for us- nowadays you could probably just take a few pads and go at it.. route specific for validity sounds reasonable

User avatar
SCIN
BANNED
Posts: 4981
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 9:19 am
Location: Lexington, KY

Post by SCIN » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:54 am

Sandman wrote:I sort of agree with you ray on the first piece and downclimb comment. Ill give you that. And pigsteak... i understand where your coming from, but to compare having to place gear on lead and throwing a draw in real quick, its not the same!!!!, ive never been 20ft runout on a sport route, scared shitless, pumped as hell and looking for where to place my next draw frantically. I know where that is!!, the next bolt, its all laid out for yah. Not so on ALOT of gear routes. Sure... someones gonna argue that you can go do a splitter hand crack with a bunch of 1's and 2's, and thats not much harder than placing draws. Very true but Thats not a constant thing, its not always laid out there like that. It makes just as much sense to say, its not an FA with bolts pre-placed. But.... there suppose to be there...its sport climbing, your cheating to begin with. But trad climbing.... from my meager understanding, means placing your own protection....
If pinkpointing because cool, lets just bolt the shit. those dang ole' widgets and squeezers and cheap.....
I was only comparing throwing a cam in to placing a quickdraw on lines that are completely dialed for redpoint. On my hardest redpoints I knew exactly which piece to place and exactly where it went. I even had it racked in order on my harness.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Post by pigsteak » Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:35 pm

Exactly SCIN.....I thought we were talking about FA's...where more than likely the climber has the thing fairly dialed.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

Post Reply