Which type of climbing style is the hardest?

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?

If you were about to climb a route which was at the extreme of your climbing ability, which type of protection do you think would make this route the MOST DIFFICULT for you to redpoint?

Bolted Protection (Draws)
1
2%
No Protection (not even a crashpad)
16
32%
Top Rope (with No Unclipping)
8
16%
Traditional Protection (Cams & Nuts)
25
50%
 
Total votes: 50

512OW
Master of My Own Reality
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 5:43 pm
Location: steadily moving up the points list...
Contact:

Post by 512OW » Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:17 pm

Saxman wrote:Your votes are only as good as the voters. How many of the voters train equally at all types of climbing? Those are the only votes that would help shed light on the issue.
Exactly.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com

User avatar
SCIN
BANNED
Posts: 4981
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 9:19 am
Location: Lexington, KY

Post by SCIN » Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:53 pm

I can think of plenty of sport lines where clipping the draw was a crucial element of the crux of the route. Most of them are in the 5.13 range. Some of them put you face to face with huge ass whippers which can sometimes be pretty close to dangerous. I can't recall many trad lines in the Red which have that element. It's kind of tough to place gear on Days of Rage I guess.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio

captain static
Hippifried
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:05 pm
Location: On Yonder Mountain
Contact:

Post by captain static » Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:54 pm

I hate to break it to you children but the answer is none of the above. The hardest style of climbing is alpine mountain climbing. The approach starting in the middle of the night. Soloing the cracks the "traddies" whine about. Throw in a little ice climbing and mixed climbing. Seven solid pitches to the summit. And then jump some crevasses on the descent. Break base camp, drink some champagne and hike back out to the car after a 16 hour climb.

Mountain climbing is a sport. Trad, sport, bouldering are all games.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh

User avatar
SCIN
BANNED
Posts: 4981
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 9:19 am
Location: Lexington, KY

Post by SCIN » Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:17 pm

SCIN wrote:I can think of plenty of sport lines where clipping the draw was a crucial element of the crux of the route. Most of them are in the 5.13 range. Some of them put you face to face with huge ass whippers which can sometimes be pretty close to dangerous. I can't recall many trad lines in the Red which have that element. It's kind of tough to place gear on Days of Rage I guess.
Actually I just thought of a lot more trad lines with tough placements. I think when you're at your limit it's just hard to stop and place or clip or whatever.......trad or sport.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio

User avatar
ynot
Trad Grandaddy
Posts: 6431
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 9:02 pm
Location: the corner of Walk and Don't Walk
Contact:

Post by ynot » Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:23 pm

Mr Get it on Jones looks pretty sick. overhanging,no feet ,thin.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

512OW
Master of My Own Reality
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 5:43 pm
Location: steadily moving up the points list...
Contact:

Post by 512OW » Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:02 am

ynot wrote:Mr Get it on Jones looks pretty sick. overhanging,no feet ,thin.
No feet? Its got feet. Its just hard.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com

512OW
Master of My Own Reality
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 5:43 pm
Location: steadily moving up the points list...
Contact:

Post by 512OW » Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:03 am

captain static wrote:I hate to break it to you children but the answer is none of the above. The hardest style of climbing is alpine mountain climbing. The approach starting in the middle of the night. Soloing the cracks the "traddies" whine about. Throw in a little ice climbing and mixed climbing. Seven solid pitches to the summit. And then jump some crevasses on the descent. Break base camp, drink some champagne and hike back out to the car after a 16 hour climb.

Mountain climbing is a sport. Trad, sport, bouldering are all games.
Hmm... again, depends on the person. I'm sure there are LOTS of guys who can crush alpine shit, but can't climb a 5.12 sport route to save their lives...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com

anticlmber
Tenderheart Bear
Posts: 3393
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 8:34 pm
Location: standing behind you putting gloves on

Post by anticlmber » Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:55 am

my vote is for whatever i am standing under when a bear attacks.
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life

charlie
BANNED
Posts: 3234
Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2003 12:55 pm
Location: The Comfort of Strangers

Post by charlie » Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:48 am

512OW wrote:....Hmm... again, depends on the person. I'm sure there are LOTS of guys who can crush alpine shit, but can't climb a 5.12 sport route to save their lives...
The weather will not kill you in Rifle or the South East.

Regardless, climbing is like shooting pool, every shot is hard. Just when you lose focus and think it's easy, you'll miss your shot.

Lateralus
925 Challenged
Posts: 937
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 6:14 pm
Location: far from "THE" sandstone

Post by Lateralus » Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:45 pm

the hardest one is the one that feels hardest to you --got any more tough questions? :wink:
"Good things take time, impossible things take a little longer"
Percy Gerutty

512OW
Master of My Own Reality
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 5:43 pm
Location: steadily moving up the points list...
Contact:

Post by 512OW » Wed Jan 14, 2009 12:07 am

This poll is just like trying to prove that the Cat in the Hat exists by quoting from Dr. Seuss...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com

Danny
Ghost Climber
Posts: 1088
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 3:20 pm
Location: Bloomington
Contact:

Post by Danny » Wed Jan 14, 2009 1:09 am

Lateralus is basically right, each individual will have their own strengths and weaknesses. However there is likely some type of consensus strengths and weaknesses. In the red the majority is probably above average at overhanging endurance techniques. Thus other styles at the same grade may feel a bit harder. It is probably true that grades in trad, sport, face, OW ... whatever are roughly accurate for individuals that are tuned into those styles, but as Chris notes, most of us are not good at all techniques.

User avatar
ReachHigh
Don's Love Child
Posts: 1784
Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2005 12:17 pm
Location: Ashland, KY
Contact:

Post by ReachHigh » Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:50 am

512OW wrote:This poll is just like trying to prove that the Cat in the Hat exists by quoting from Dr. Seuss...


Leave religion out of this.
"there's a line between self improvement and self involvement"
"Dogs are nature's pooper scoopers ."

User avatar
ynp1
still a dumbass
Posts: 1324
Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 6:54 pm
Location: Bishop, CA

Post by ynp1 » Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:32 pm

a lot of climbers that crush alpine routes cant climb 5.12? really??? i guess ill take your word on that... i know you are on the "in" with the alpine community... :roll:
I don't have haters, I have fans in denial.

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Post by pigsteak » Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:52 pm

ynp1 wrote:a lot of climbers that crush alpine routes cant climb 5.12? really??? i guess ill take your word on that... i know you are on the "in" with the alpine community... :roll:
but we do know they can crush aid lines....why isn't that genre part of the debate? oh yeah, it's not REAL climbing.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

Post Reply