Recommended Red River Rack.

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
johnwesely
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:44 pm
Location: Athens, Ga

Recommended Red River Rack.

Post by johnwesely » Sun May 03, 2009 3:50 pm

I am heading off to the red in eight days to climb for a month and was wondering if my rack is sufficient to do most routes?
I have:
1 set of nuts
1 red and pink tricam
1 grey tcu
1 blue tcu
2 yellow tcu
3 orange tcu
3 .5 cam
2 .75 cam
1 1 cam
1 2 cam
1 3 cam
1 3" hex

Is that enough, or is there anything else that I absolutely need?

Andrew
Happy Tee Hee
Posts: 3814
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 5:40 pm
Location: Cinci

Post by Andrew » Sun May 03, 2009 4:43 pm

Thats plenty, but I have found that the red uses a lot of 1's and 2's. But what you have will work.
Living the dream

User avatar
ynot
Trad Grandaddy
Posts: 6431
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 9:02 pm
Location: the corner of Walk and Don't Walk
Contact:

Post by ynot » Sun May 03, 2009 4:44 pm

sounds fine if you are only after finger cracks.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

johnwesely
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:44 pm
Location: Athens, Ga

Post by johnwesely » Sun May 03, 2009 4:53 pm

Would this get me up something like rock wars or cruising lane?

pawilkes
Sandy's Whipping Boy
Posts: 1570
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 1:45 am
Location: Salt Lake City
Contact:

Post by pawilkes » Sun May 03, 2009 5:21 pm

it would get you up rock wars and probably cruising lane, i remember using lots of nuts on it. a double set of cams is nice to have in the red, especially .75-2
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.

johnwesely
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:44 pm
Location: Athens, Ga

Post by johnwesely » Sun May 03, 2009 8:17 pm

pawilkes wrote:it would get you up rock wars and probably cruising lane, i remember using lots of nuts on it. a double set of cams is nice to have in the red, especially .75-2
I really wish I did not have the triples in the sizes I have. I am not really sure how that happened. If anyone wants to trade the a 1 and 2 forged friend, or equivalent, for the two largest trango splitter cams, I would be down. I would even sweeten the deal in anyway I could.

Are there any classic routes that I should definitely avoid given my lack of medium cams?

User avatar
michaelarmand
Goes down on Ann Coulter
Posts: 526
Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:08 am
Location: The Nasty, OHIO

Post by michaelarmand » Sun May 03, 2009 8:31 pm

Do the classics! Just partner up with someone who can supplement your rack....
I've been a gumby longer than you've been climbing.

User avatar
p0bray01
Lame Wade
Lame Wade
Posts: 482
Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 4:05 pm
Location: The Crossroads of Life
Contact:

Post by p0bray01 » Sun May 03, 2009 8:41 pm

yeah the only thing I would reccomend is one or 2 #4 camalots. I seem to use AT LEAST one of those on every climb I have done. But then again I like routes that have a lot of diversity. Your rack will work for most of the routes. Of course if you got ginormous cohones then it will work for ALL the routes :wink:
"The Mountains are my church and climbing is how I worship" - Tommy Caldwell

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Post by pigsteak » Sun May 03, 2009 9:03 pm

no one stating the obvious? the only rack you need is 14 quick draws. the rest is a waste.

ur welcome.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

johnwesely
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:44 pm
Location: Athens, Ga

Post by johnwesely » Sun May 03, 2009 9:14 pm

pigsteak wrote:no one stating the obvious? the only rack you need is 14 quick draws. the rest is a waste.

ur welcome.
What are quickdraw? I'll be climbing sport routes with my tripled trad draws.

512OW
Master of My Own Reality
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 5:43 pm
Location: steadily moving up the points list...
Contact:

Post by 512OW » Sun May 03, 2009 10:30 pm

pigsteak wrote:no one stating the obvious? the only rack you need is 14 quick draws. the rest is a waste.

ur welcome.
Troof.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com

johnwesely
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:44 pm
Location: Athens, Ga

Post by johnwesely » Sun May 03, 2009 10:40 pm

512OW wrote:
pigsteak wrote:no one stating the obvious? the only rack you need is 14 quick draws. the rest is a waste.

ur welcome.
Troof.
I imagine you have a 1" cam and a 2" cam lying around. I will buy them if the price is right.

Shamis
bottom feeder
Posts: 1343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:11 am

Post by Shamis » Mon May 04, 2009 1:47 am

For larger cracks you'll want to double up on #1 and #2.

Danny
Ghost Climber
Posts: 1088
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 3:20 pm
Location: Bloomington
Contact:

Post by Danny » Mon May 04, 2009 2:58 am

That rack looks good and you can do most routes. If you were going to add I'd suggest this order, 3.5, 4, 1, 2, 4.5, 5. Even most hand sized cracks vary quite a bit up and down and in and out and you will often be able to find good placements for your orange, 0.5 and 0.75. Also many times you can place a 1 or 2, move up to a better position, place a smaller piece and back clean your rarer piece for later use.

johnwesely
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:44 pm
Location: Athens, Ga

Post by johnwesely » Mon May 04, 2009 8:12 am

Danny wrote:That rack looks good and you can do most routes. If you were going to add I'd suggest this order, 3.5, 4, 1, 2, 4.5, 5. Even most hand sized cracks vary quite a bit up and down and in and out and you will often be able to find good placements for your orange, 0.5 and 0.75. Also many times you can place a 1 or 2, move up to a better position, place a smaller piece and back clean your rarer piece for later use.
Thanks.

Post Reply