Simul-repel accident today at Military

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Redpoint
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Simul-repel accident today at Military

Post by Redpoint » Sun Sep 13, 2009 1:22 am

Today at Military two guys were simul-repelling and one of them went off the end of the rope, and so of course the other guy decked too. I wasn't there to see it happen, but one of the injured guy's brother told me everything. The guy who repelled off the end of his rope fell about 15 feet and his back landed on a rock, and he might have possibly shattered his tail bone. The other guy might have broken his wrist, but at least they both are still alive. The guy I talked to said he was going to give his brother hell about not tying knots in the end of the rope. He said that the fact that their rope got stuck in a tree below them might have been what triggered the incident, but we decided that didn't make any sense considering knots in the end of the rope would have avoided the entire incident.

The entrance trail(I forgot the name of it) was closed, so nobody was allowed to take it to Military or Left Flank during the rescue operation. A group of people were acting all bitchy about it and I told them we were going to bush-wack around the blockade so that we could pick up the trail and go hike to Grey's arch, and that we would be happy to take them to the trail to Left Flank where their friends were waiting for them. They decided not to follow and just sit in the parking lot and wait for their friends instead... (insert gumby remarks here).


Not that I trad climb, but I am curious; what do you do if you are simul-repelling and you both get to the end of the rope and it isn't long enough to reach the bottom?

I guess in some situations one person could go indirect and have the other person just climb back up, and then he could top belay you and you two could figure out a better way to repel down, for instance in two pitches instead of just the one, but what if you are repelling where there was no way to climb back up?
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Post by the lurkist » Sun Sep 13, 2009 10:56 am

get out your prussiks.
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clif
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Post by clif » Sun Sep 13, 2009 12:21 pm

wha? why? i can see doing this off a featureless arch (maybe) but otherwise it seems the doublemint twins take on sport rappelling. sorry, what am i missing? hey buddy!- when we get down lets play yo-yo's together?

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Post by pawilkes » Sun Sep 13, 2009 5:59 pm

Simul rapping isn't that hard but its easy to mess up. i generally only due it when i have a lot of pitches to rap and/or when i need to get down fast for rain or darkness. I don't understand why there would be a need to do that at military however, i know very little of the facts and coming from Redpoint I know I should be extra cautious.

Knots will definitely help prevent accidents. More importantly though is to be very competent and have a competent partner. I would be interested to know what % of user error accidents like this occur to people with less than 2 years of experience. my guess is that it would be significant
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Post by KD » Sun Sep 13, 2009 8:34 pm

I like to smack against my partner when I simul repel. Kind of like those clacker things that kids used to have. You smack against each other repeatedly all the way down. It's sooo cool :)

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Post by krampus » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:00 pm

I guess that explains why we had left flank all to ourselves today
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Post by clif » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:41 pm

apologies for interrupting a perfectly good hijacking.

HITTING THE GROUND SUCKS.

I fully encourage people to always tie a knot in the ends of their ropes when rappelling.

I am glad they are ~ok. This occasion sounds easily avoidable and unnecessary. A few things I hope are taken away from the experience:

-Know how, when, where your rappel ends. IF UNCERTAIN (or just to be in the habit of practicing safety)-tie the ends.
-IF UNCERTAINTY exists-assess the limitations. Take these variables into account. Learn the prussik.
-UNCERTAINTY EXISTS.

ok, sorry for the obvious. Enjoy.

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Re. Redpoint

Post by heroclimber » Sun Sep 13, 2009 10:02 pm

If the tails of your rope(s) dont reach the ground you have a couple of options.
1- if you have the gear: build an anchor, go to the deck, reclimb the route, get your gear back, rap with proper length ropes.
2- if you have a prusik: go back up, dont fukc it up this time.
3- if you dont have a prusik: batman back up the rope (sucks if its overhanging) or downclimb pulling the rope with you.
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Post by ecp88 » Sun Sep 13, 2009 10:27 pm

I'm sorry these guys got hurt, but don't people look where they're going when they rappel? I always tend to look down, and hence look at my rope.

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Post by krampus » Mon Sep 14, 2009 8:15 am

my question is, what rout were they on at military that a double rope repel did not reach the ground? Were they 40 meter ropes? How many times did they cut their 60? Or where they really trying to get off a two to three pitch climb (jungle beat 180 ft) with only one 60?
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Post by Josephine » Mon Sep 14, 2009 8:39 am

krampus wrote:my question is, what rout were they on at military that a double rope repel did not reach the ground? Were they 40 meter ropes? How many times did they cut their 60? Or where they really trying to get off a two to three pitch climb (jungle beat 180 ft) with only one 60?
that's what i was wondering.
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Post by ynot » Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:49 pm

Gi doesn't top out any more. Do any of the sport routes need two ropes to get down where you cant see the bottom?
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Post by A. Love » Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:57 pm

My friends and I assisted with the rescue.

The climbers were rappeling after climbing Jungle Beat. It was very unfortunate what happenned. The guide clearly indicates that two rappels are necessary to reach the ground, but it may have been a situation where the climbers did not haver a guide.

Things to keep in mind: Unless there is a good reason, such as impending bad weather, a single rappel can be less confusing. Checking and double checking that ropes have reached the ground is important, tying knots in the end of your ropes is never a bad idea if rappeling or belaying and lowering off a long route.

Due to our various levels of comfort we can become complacent with the systems we use. Please always be aware, climbing is dangerous.

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Post by Saxman » Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:47 am

Were they using 2 50m ropes?
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Post by hamsco » Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:53 pm

You can get down from Jungle Beat using two, single (50 or 60m) Raps. If you choose the right spot. Which is a huge tree (2.5 ft. dia.) with webbing, cable, and ropes on it.
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