trad rack

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
dspringer
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trad rack

Post by dspringer » Wed May 26, 2010 1:16 pm

I'm looking to start trad climbing. What do I need to buy for a trad rack for the red?

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rjackson
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Post by rjackson » Wed May 26, 2010 1:26 pm

I'd recommend hooking up with someone that already has a rack, and some experience, and go out with them a few times and see if you really want to invest in trad climbing in the red. It's a different kind of animal. If you follow this advice then the next step would be to check out various different manufactures and the differences between items that function the same between them (cams, nuts, slings, biners, etc). If you get this far, then you won't need to ask anyone what you'll need, you'll know...
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jrathfon
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Post by jrathfon » Wed May 26, 2010 3:50 pm

good advice above, but to answer the question directly, my typical red onsite rack is: double BD c4's from 0.5-2, green yellow aliens, single 0.4 and 3 c4's, 1.5 sets of nuts from 4-10 BD and equivalent of 3-7 BD sized offset brassies, 4 quickdraws and 4 trad slings.

that will shift as i eye something up, for instance thinner climbs i'll tack on 0.3-0.5's c4's, blue alien, green red c3's, etc. for hand sized climbs (africa, etc) i'll lose the finger tip sizes and tripple up on #1-2 c4's (red/yellow), for more moderate stuff having double #3's and a #4 is pretty standard as the moderates tend to always get a bit bigger. tricams have nitch placements everyonce in a while.

to sum it up, a set of nuts, and double cams from tips to wide fists would be the standard rack.

to fully protect everything well in the red, you'd want to merge two of those racks. cause a lot of climbs will take numerous cams in the same size range: roadside attraction, africa, adromeda strain, crack attack, oberon, rebar, where lizard's dare, to name a few.

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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak » Wed May 26, 2010 9:39 pm

I own maybe fifteen cams from different manufacturers and have had zero problem getting up any climb at the Red.... too much gear is just a nerd thing to do....
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ynp1
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Post by ynp1 » Wed May 26, 2010 10:07 pm

1-4 BD angles, 1-4 KBs, 1-4 LA's, 1-3 BD beaks x2, 1 bong, 2 RURPs, and a hammer should do the trick...

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dustonian
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Post by dustonian » Wed May 26, 2010 11:24 pm

wanna sell any of those Kipp??

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Post by the lurkist » Wed May 26, 2010 11:32 pm

How many gear sales have there been after guys who go out and buy a nice rack without realizing how scared they are about to make themselves go trad climbing for the first time?
I personally have benefited from a few.
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Post by bentley » Thu May 27, 2010 7:58 am

Dont forget a stickclip!
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toad857
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Post by toad857 » Thu May 27, 2010 8:22 am

and an attitude... im pretty sure that most trad racks require some kind of attitude to make them complete

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Post by jrathfon » Thu May 27, 2010 9:50 am

pigsteak wrote:I own maybe fifteen cams from different manufacturers and have had zero problem getting up any climb at the Red.... too much gear is just a nerd thing to do....
hence a double rack from 0.3 to 3 and a #4... and if it's nerdy being safe, i prefer to be nerdy. have fun on andromeda strain with 3-4 pieces.

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krampus
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Post by krampus » Thu May 27, 2010 9:57 am

ahab wrote:rack in fear
Image

this guy is ready for calipso III
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared

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ahab
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Post by ahab » Thu May 27, 2010 11:46 am

lol, the more shit you buy, the more shit will end up on your harness that you don't need as you stand at the base of your next grand conquest and 'rack up in fear'.
minimalism is where it's at. it's the wave of the future.

go buy two hexes and two cams, lead roadside attraction and report back immediately for further instructions.
buy the Ticket take the Ride

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bcombs
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Post by bcombs » Thu May 27, 2010 12:14 pm

I "lead" Dicey at Best with two pieces. Only because I had just a single cam wide enough to work. Walked it all the way to the hueco below the anchors. :lol:

I suck at trad.

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Post by Andrew » Thu May 27, 2010 1:13 pm

Aren't cams used for bolting routes? What is this trad yall are talking about.
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Post by dustonian » Thu May 27, 2010 1:17 pm

For a RRG rack I recommend a 36V Bosch, 1/2" SS glue-ins, Hilti C100 epoxy, and a couple hooks...
Last edited by dustonian on Thu May 27, 2010 5:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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