trad rack

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
jrathfon
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 137
Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 10:39 am
Location: Louisville, KY

Post by jrathfon » Thu May 27, 2010 1:22 pm

the lurkist wrote:How many gear sales have there been after guys who go out and buy a nice rack without realizing how scared they are about to make themselves go trad climbing for the first time?
I personally have benefited from a few.
here

scared for a good reason, but illustrates the point.

User avatar
Clevis Hitch
My Name is Joe.
Posts: 1461
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 1:10 pm

Post by Clevis Hitch » Thu May 27, 2010 4:25 pm

dustonian wrote:I recommend a 36V Bosch, 1/2" SS glue-ins, and Hilti C100 epoxy...
8)
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!

Andrew
Happy Tee Hee
Posts: 3814
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 5:40 pm
Location: Cinci

Post by Andrew » Thu May 27, 2010 4:29 pm

I am not sure you get my point. The only thing I have used a cam for in the last three years has been to pull myself close to the rock to get a bolt in.
Living the dream

User avatar
bcombs
Generic Jerry
Posts: 2048
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 12:20 pm
Location: Cincy

Post by bcombs » Thu May 27, 2010 5:36 pm

Omega cams are the absolute best for that swinging in wildly and slapping at the wall hoping for a good placement situation. 8) Once its in, drill away.

User avatar
Josephine
Mean like vegetables
Posts: 2216
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 6:38 pm
Location: lexington at last
Contact:

Post by Josephine » Thu May 27, 2010 5:47 pm

i think the best advice is to go with someone who has a rack and learn what you like and what you don't.

then wait for a gear sale from someone who's getting out of climbing. they really come along. in one year i had 2 friends get out of climbing and both offered to sell me their rack. so i have a beautiful rack full of nice toys :wink:
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun

User avatar
cliftongifford
Lame Wade
Lame Wade
Posts: 650
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:57 am
Location: Omnipresent
Contact:

Post by cliftongifford » Thu May 27, 2010 7:27 pm

if you can't afford a whole rack at once you could maybe find a friend or someone that's wanting to build a rack too. You buy a few pieces, he/she buys a few pieces and then you can climb. plus, usually you're climbing with someone who already climbs, so hopefully they'll have gear too. passive pro is your cheapest option for protection... buy a rack of nuts, some tri-cams, and a few cams and you should be good to go.

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Post by pigsteak » Thu May 27, 2010 9:11 pm

pigsteak wrote:I own maybe fifteen cams from different manufacturers and have had zero problem getting up any climb at the Red.... too much gear is just a nerd thing to do....
bingo..someone finally got my post...I like Andrew use cams to bolt steep sport routes. That's it.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

User avatar
rjackson
Full of (sh)It
Posts: 928
Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2003 11:26 am
Location: Between a sport and a trad place.

Post by rjackson » Thu May 27, 2010 10:28 pm

Not that Pigsteak can't place a cam, but maybe it's a good thing that he's usually hanging from a rope when does...
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad

L K Day
Olds Cool
Posts: 827
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2004 2:29 am
Location: Bozeman, MT

Post by L K Day » Thu May 27, 2010 11:58 pm

I was always able to protect most routes well enough with a set of hexes and stoppers, a couple of tube chocks, a couple of smaller tricams, three or four spring loaded cams, some quick draws, some full length slings, and one or two triple length slings. Try not to carry too much at any one time.
But like the man said, follow someone else for a while before you buy much.

anticlmber
Tenderheart Bear
Posts: 3393
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 8:34 pm
Location: standing behind you putting gloves on

Post by anticlmber » Fri May 28, 2010 11:56 am

just buy a crash pad, a big one.
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life

User avatar
ynot
Trad Grandaddy
Posts: 6431
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 9:02 pm
Location: the corner of Walk and Don't Walk
Contact:

Post by ynot » Fri May 28, 2010 4:02 pm

yea, nap on it instead of hanging a hammock.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

wheelis
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: Louisville, KY

Post by wheelis » Fri May 28, 2010 5:02 pm

The crash pad is in case you fall out of your hammock.

Post Reply