trad rack

Post by **jrathfon** » Thu May 27, 2010 1:22 pm

the lurkist wrote:How many gear sales have there been after guys who go out and buy a nice rack without realizing how scared they are about to make themselves go trad climbing for the first time?
I personally have benefited from a few.

here

scared for a good reason, but illustrates the point.

Post by **Clevis Hitch** » Thu May 27, 2010 4:25 pm

dustonian wrote:I recommend a 36V Bosch, 1/2" SS glue-ins, and Hilti C100 epoxy...

Post by **Andrew** » Thu May 27, 2010 4:29 pm

I am not sure you get my point. The only thing I have used a cam for in the last three years has been to pull myself close to the rock to get a bolt in.

Post by **bcombs** » Thu May 27, 2010 5:36 pm

Omega cams are the absolute best for that swinging in wildly and slapping at the wall hoping for a good placement situation.

Once its in, drill away.

Post by **Josephine** » Thu May 27, 2010 5:47 pm

i think the best advice is to go with someone who has a rack and learn what you like and what you don't.

then wait for a gear sale from someone who's getting out of climbing. they really come along. in one year i had 2 friends get out of climbing and both offered to sell me their rack. so i have a beautiful rack full of nice toys

Post by **cliftongifford** » Thu May 27, 2010 7:27 pm

if you can't afford a whole rack at once you could maybe find a friend or someone that's wanting to build a rack too. You buy a few pieces, he/she buys a few pieces and then you can climb. plus, usually you're climbing with someone who already climbs, so hopefully they'll have gear too. passive pro is your cheapest option for protection... buy a rack of nuts, some tri-cams, and a few cams and you should be good to go.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu May 27, 2010 9:11 pm

pigsteak wrote:I own maybe fifteen cams from different manufacturers and have had zero problem getting up any climb at the Red.... too much gear is just a nerd thing to do....

bingo..someone finally got my post...I like Andrew use cams to bolt steep sport routes. That's it.

Post by **rjackson** » Thu May 27, 2010 10:28 pm

Not that Pigsteak can't place a cam, but maybe it's a good thing that he's usually hanging from a rope when does...

Post by **L K Day** » Thu May 27, 2010 11:58 pm

I was always able to protect most routes well enough with a set of hexes and stoppers, a couple of tube chocks, a couple of smaller tricams, three or four spring loaded cams, some quick draws, some full length slings, and one or two triple length slings. Try not to carry too much at any one time.
But like the man said, follow someone else for a while before you buy much.

Post by **anticlmber** » Fri May 28, 2010 11:56 am

just buy a crash pad, a big one.

Post by **ynot** » Fri May 28, 2010 4:02 pm

yea, nap on it instead of hanging a hammock.

Post by **wheelis** » Fri May 28, 2010 5:02 pm

The crash pad is in case you fall out of your hammock.