trad rack
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rjackson
- Full of (sh)It
- Posts: 928
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2003 11:26 am
- Location: Between a sport and a trad place.
I'd recommend hooking up with someone that already has a rack, and some experience, and go out with them a few times and see if you really want to invest in trad climbing in the red. It's a different kind of animal. If you follow this advice then the next step would be to check out various different manufactures and the differences between items that function the same between them (cams, nuts, slings, biners, etc). If you get this far, then you won't need to ask anyone what you'll need, you'll know...
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
good advice above, but to answer the question directly, my typical red onsite rack is: double BD c4's from 0.5-2, green yellow aliens, single 0.4 and 3 c4's, 1.5 sets of nuts from 4-10 BD and equivalent of 3-7 BD sized offset brassies, 4 quickdraws and 4 trad slings.
that will shift as i eye something up, for instance thinner climbs i'll tack on 0.3-0.5's c4's, blue alien, green red c3's, etc. for hand sized climbs (africa, etc) i'll lose the finger tip sizes and tripple up on #1-2 c4's (red/yellow), for more moderate stuff having double #3's and a #4 is pretty standard as the moderates tend to always get a bit bigger. tricams have nitch placements everyonce in a while.
to sum it up, a set of nuts, and double cams from tips to wide fists would be the standard rack.
to fully protect everything well in the red, you'd want to merge two of those racks. cause a lot of climbs will take numerous cams in the same size range: roadside attraction, africa, adromeda strain, crack attack, oberon, rebar, where lizard's dare, to name a few.
that will shift as i eye something up, for instance thinner climbs i'll tack on 0.3-0.5's c4's, blue alien, green red c3's, etc. for hand sized climbs (africa, etc) i'll lose the finger tip sizes and tripple up on #1-2 c4's (red/yellow), for more moderate stuff having double #3's and a #4 is pretty standard as the moderates tend to always get a bit bigger. tricams have nitch placements everyonce in a while.
to sum it up, a set of nuts, and double cams from tips to wide fists would be the standard rack.
to fully protect everything well in the red, you'd want to merge two of those racks. cause a lot of climbs will take numerous cams in the same size range: roadside attraction, africa, adromeda strain, crack attack, oberon, rebar, where lizard's dare, to name a few.
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the lurkist
- In Crust We Trust
- Posts: 2244
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 10:07 am
How many gear sales have there been after guys who go out and buy a nice rack without realizing how scared they are about to make themselves go trad climbing for the first time?
I personally have benefited from a few.
I personally have benefited from a few.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
hence a double rack from 0.3 to 3 and a #4... and if it's nerdy being safe, i prefer to be nerdy. have fun on andromeda strain with 3-4 pieces.pigsteak wrote:I own maybe fifteen cams from different manufacturers and have had zero problem getting up any climb at the Red.... too much gear is just a nerd thing to do....
lol, the more shit you buy, the more shit will end up on your harness that you don't need as you stand at the base of your next grand conquest and 'rack up in fear'.
minimalism is where it's at. it's the wave of the future.
go buy two hexes and two cams, lead roadside attraction and report back immediately for further instructions.
minimalism is where it's at. it's the wave of the future.
go buy two hexes and two cams, lead roadside attraction and report back immediately for further instructions.
buy the Ticket take the Ride
