Caver's Route on Tower Rock

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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Caver's Route on Tower Rock

Post by milspecmark » Fri Jul 09, 2010 12:54 pm

What kind of trad equipment do I need to do Caver's Route? I normally sport climb but I am going to the gorge with a friend that Trad climbs but I want to make sure he has enough gear.

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cavers

Post by JRTrash » Fri Jul 09, 2010 12:59 pm

two draws, a wire nut to cinch around an old bolt and a sling or two.
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Post by chester » Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:02 pm

Doesn't he need two ropes for the rappel?
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Post by JRTrash » Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:18 pm

yes
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Post by pkananen » Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:44 pm

I think bringing a rope on that climb is more trouble than it's worth. There's 20 feet of chimneying that is protected by a sketchy bolt. You'll bring a rack and barely use it.

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Post by milspecmark » Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:59 pm

pkananen wrote:I think bringing a rope on that climb is more trouble than it's worth. There's 20 feet of chimneying that is protected by a sketchy bolt. You'll bring a rack and barely use it.
So you are saying to just downclimb? I have never seen it so I have no idea what to expect

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Post by captain static » Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:13 pm

If I was bringing a friend who climbed trad to RRG for the first time I don't think Caver's or Tower Rock for that matter would be the first place I would think of taking them.
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Post by Myke Dronez » Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:21 pm

Cavers is just an excuse to drink on the summit.. Listen to the captain.

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Post by ynp1 » Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:30 pm

You dont need any gear... Just one quickdraw for the bolt. You can rap it with one rope, but it is a pain in the ass. It is as easy to down climb it as it is to go up it. I personally would leave the rope on the ground and solo it up and down.

But I am sure your friend would love africa, dog days and arachnid!
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Post by milspecmark » Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:11 pm

captain static wrote:If I was bringing a friend who climbed trad to RRG for the first time I don't think Caver's or Tower Rock for that matter would be the first place I would think of taking them.
Well we are bringing a bunch of noobs to the red and we wanted to do something easy and cool.

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Post by pawilkes » Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:58 pm

they'll have the crap scared out of them if they're leading. the first pitch is basically unprotectable w/ normal gear.
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re: cavers

Post by JRTrash » Fri Jul 09, 2010 5:16 pm

If you are looking for something easy and cool, try bedtime for bonzo at fortress wall. SUPER easy 1st pitch, slightly harder 2nd pitch, bolt anchors at the top of each pitch for easy toproping, and a nice view of the red after the top out. protects with a standard rack .5-3 BD bring some slings for the second pitch. lots of shorter fun and easy single pitch stuff there along the main wall too.
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Post by the lurkist » Fri Jul 09, 2010 5:17 pm

high adventure. trad climbing, caving, worm drive, summit experience, the descent-- it' all there.
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Post by ynot » Fri Jul 09, 2010 7:43 pm

A set of nuts, a few tricams, yellow,orange and red metolious cams . a 4 and a 5 bd cam for an anchor, a draw. I think you can get a fist size cam in before the last chimney. some slings and lockers. a 60 just barely gets you down on the opposite side you start from. There's gear but you really have to look for it.
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Post by Jeff » Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:25 pm

I'm first to call TROLL.

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