Speak Up!

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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LK Day
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Speak Up!

Post by LK Day » Tue Oct 04, 2011 10:17 pm

Come on traddies, tell us about it.

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rjackson
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by rjackson » Tue Oct 04, 2011 10:53 pm

What's to say? Plugging gear is alive and well in the gorge!

Personally I'm not racking up huge miles but hitting some of the routes that I've never made time for, and some I had never in even thought possible, and even more that are well, let's say they've never had gear in 'em before. Few weeks back finally got on Whiteout after years of driving down the highway and looking at it. Big fun. The shocker that day was Sharp though. Jeff and I were both amazed at how good that line was, and how many have just not gone around the corner (no excuse now since it has anchors!). Got on Brontosaurus this year for the first time and would have had a shot at it had it not been pouring rain (with subsequent seeping in the crux). Also, I have a long standing feud with No Return that I hope to put to bed this year. (I happened to be out there a couple of months ago and got on it on TR to clean some guys gear who were from Michigan, and it felt great!) Also, on the hit list for this fall is Minas Tirith and Jungle Beat, and I'm threatening to go to Purple Valley and finally check out Burden of Dreams (any beta accepted!).

And then there's a couple of trad lines I've FA'd with Scott Hammon this year, and a couple of more slightly hidden "project" lines. Great variety of movement on "soon to be classic(?)" lines and oh-so-much fun just to be blasting through rhodos, scrubbing lichen and pulling weeds! I'll post 'em up on FB later this year.

But I have to say, as far trad this year, my big trad stories aren't from the gorge. I went out west with previously mentioned Scott Hammon and got schooled in Eldorado Canyon, Boulder Canyon and then up to Vedauwoo. This was an awesome experience for a 50 year old who had only climbed outside the gorge only once before. Highlight of the trip was topping out Redgarten Wall via Icarus (and then surviving the walk off!) Talk about an awe-inspiring week of multi-pitch madness that we wished would never end!

And the year isn't over, the season is just starting. There are several more good months of climbing (the best of the year) and I expect to bolt a few more sets of anchors as well as cleanly touching some existing ones. I gotta say, it's a great time to be a traddie in Kentucky!
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad

LK Day
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by LK Day » Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:31 pm

Cool. I must say, I was starting to wonder.

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One-Fall
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by One-Fall » Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:26 am

Great write up, Russ!
Can't we all just get along?

GWG
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by GWG » Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:15 am

rjackson wrote: This was an awesome experience for a 50 year old who had only climbed outside the gorge only once before.
That being up in the gunks 2 years ago. If you're gonna leave the nest, may as well make it great.

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caribe
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by caribe » Wed Oct 05, 2011 8:02 am

I've been plugging gear at the Red whenever I can talk a partner into it. My latest kick has been wild, unknown and dirty onsight from the ground up. 5.9 is 5.10 + headgame.

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Re: Speak Up!

Post by Andrew » Wed Oct 05, 2011 8:06 am

It is a little known fact that cams were invented to bolt steep sport routes. Not sure if you guys knew that.
Living the dream

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clif
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by clif » Wed Oct 05, 2011 8:48 am

Getting Down on It. excellent. had chills walking the halls to get my coffee after reading that rjackson.

did Sharp this weekend coming off No Place Like Home, couldn't believe i'd never heard of it before. there was a crew on Whiteout which, ignorant foreigner i am, i'd never heard people talk about. No Return! love that approach to the clean flat space, leering base and coy upper corner. on and on...

thanks!
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Speak Up!

Post by Shamis » Wed Oct 05, 2011 11:22 am

I've been plugging gear like crazy this year, but haven't made it down to the red yet. I got on some awesome stuff at Eldorado Canyon, and At the spiders web in the adirondacks. Also working on the 2nd ascent of an awesome 11R trad route here in PA. I'm really loving it so far. I lost my trad head 7 or 8 years ago and just couldn't do hard trad for a while. Now I seem to have it back and its quite fun. Sport is great, but many of the best routes in existence require gear to get to the top.

I'm still bummed that I got rained off of the 4th pitch of the Naked Edge. I will be going back for that one. Incredible route.

ted
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by ted » Wed Oct 05, 2011 11:42 am

Ill go ahead and spray for my man Heath! Put it out early spring I was looking to learn some Trad. He's been the ropegun dragging my ass up ever since. Since April we've been ticking moderate classic's all through the Red. Im pretty sure we've climbed about everything at Fortress if not twice. Wall of Denial was super nice with a nice approach and great lines like Funhouse and Strick 9, looking forward to getting back there again. Its funny rjackson mentioned whiteout. We climbed it last week "and i say this everytime" but i think its my favorite 8 in the Red! and with one pitch, Vision offers a similar view. With the leaves falling and the weather cooling off were gonna focus on more multi pitch. Foxfire and Diamond in the Crack are in the crosshairs for the week, any other must do's? Now if I can just figure out how to get my feet over a piece of pro.

LK Day
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by LK Day » Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:07 pm

caribe wrote:I've been plugging gear at the Red whenever I can talk a partner into it. My latest kick has been wild, unknown and dirty onsight from the ground up. 5.9 is 5.10 + headgame.
I'm pretty sure you understand why I hardly ever graded anything in the Red. On a first ascent, or a rare repeat you encounter so much dirt, spiderwebs, loose rock, & etc., that you really only have a rough idea of where the level of difficulty will settle out once a route has had enough traffic to clean it up. That's assuming you haven't prepped the route first.

Good on all of you! Shamis - sorry to hear you got rained out on the Naked Edge, it is truly a world class route. Right around the corner is the Diving Board, another incredible line, even if it is on slightly less wonderful rock. If you're up for a gnarly off-width crux right at the end of two continuously overhanging pitches of 5.10 you might want to check it out next time you're there. Summer thunderstorms come in really fast in Eldorado It's always wise to bail any time there's the threat of lighting. Some years back a guy was struck and killed just after topping out on the Edge.

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Re: Speak Up!

Post by Shamis » Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:19 pm

Yeah we thought about trying to wait out the storm...but the forecast was grim. Combined with the knowledge that the only fatality on the route was from lightning we decided the best option was to go drink beer. Pretty sure we made the right choice.

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climb2core
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by climb2core » Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:24 pm

LK Day wrote: Summer thunderstorms come in really fast in Eldorado It's always wise to bail any time there's the threat of lighting. Some years back a guy was struck and killed just after topping out on the Edge.
About 15 years ago I met a guy while climbing at Mount Lemmon... He was introduced to me by my climbing mentor. Anyways, after talking for a bit my mentor asked him to tell me about his experience while climbing. I am 99% positive it was on the Edge. Apparently he and his buddy were near the top when an unexpected Thunderstorm blew in. They started a rapid descent in pouring rain. Lightning moved into the area and struck the rock by where they were rapping down. There were sheets of water coming down the cliff which he said acted as a conductor. His friend was instantly killed. He was blown off the rock and fell some distance before becoming tangled in his own rope. When he came to he was stuck precariously and unable to descend. He could see people retreating out of the valley and began to yell to them. No one could hear him above the rain and the storm. Apparently, one of the last groups to leave somehow either spotted or heard him and came to his rescue.

At this point my mentor asked him to show what he had as a reminder from that day... He lifted his his shirt and he has massive burns on his chest and again on his back. Apparently his rack that he had slung over his shoulder had acted like a conductor and shot the electricity through his body. Quite a story... must be the same one.

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Clevis Hitch
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by Clevis Hitch » Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:47 pm

whoa!
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!

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heath
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Re: Speak Up!

Post by heath » Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:16 pm

We've been slinging gear at every moderate line in the Red this summer and it's been awesome. Look forward to putting some work in now that the sweat factor is down. Nevermore and Jungle Beat are next on the list. I am also dead set on doing some climbing out at Half Moon. If it weren't for laying out of school to go rappelling there, I may have never started climbing.

The highlight so far has been climbing Caver's Route with my 10 year old son. It was a proud day!
"You're a long way from home now, Buddy" - Ted kindly pointing out a ran out mess.

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