Speak Up!

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Post Reply
User avatar
Jeff
Be nice to me. I won.
Be nice to me.  I won.
Posts: 2859
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 2:40 pm
Location: Hangin

Re: Speak Up!

Post by Jeff » Wed Jan 11, 2012 11:37 am

'Twas impressive!

User avatar
caribe
Archer Jerry
Posts: 2447
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:37 pm
Location: the 1980's
Contact:

Re: Speak Up!

Post by caribe » Fri Jan 13, 2012 7:58 pm

Very nice Kipp. Your stock has gone up with me.

Shamis
bottom feeder
Posts: 1343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:11 am

Re: Speak Up!

Post by Shamis » Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:21 am

nice 1 kipp.

goodguy
Total Sandbagger
Posts: 454
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 1:13 am

Re: Speak Up!

Post by goodguy » Sat Jan 14, 2012 11:39 am

Nice work Kipp! Let me know when you want to road trip to Colorado, we can crash at Ron's place and do some real climbing!!
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Re: Speak Up!

Post by pigsteak » Sat Jan 14, 2012 6:10 pm

goodguy wrote:Nice work Kipp! Let me know when you want to road trip to Colorado, we can crash at Ron's place and do some real climbing!!
lol...I have had my share of Eldo and Lumpy in the days gone by...but can always be game for more....;)
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

dustonian
BANNED
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:46 am
Location: Lex/Zoe

Re: Speak Up!

Post by dustonian » Sat Jan 14, 2012 9:53 pm

Eldo is one of my all-time favorites.... that canyon is so dreamy!!

User avatar
clif
Loser
Loser
Posts: 1731
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 5:24 pm

Re: Speak Up!

Post by clif » Fri Mar 30, 2012 9:24 am

finally got on Headstone Surfer a few weeks ago. back in the day, before Muir and PMRP, Funk Rock was high on the list of places to go with what was then a lot of routes at various grades.... so like my first trip to the Red i had seen Headstone and, ~15? years later-done. nice and long, clean and quality rock.

-->Doppler Effect 2027!
training is for people who care, i have a job.

Cleveland
Wannabe Rock Junkie
Posts: 385
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 12:47 pm
Location: Covington, KY
Contact:

Re: Speak Up!

Post by Cleveland » Fri Mar 30, 2012 9:29 am

dustonian wrote:Eldo is one of my all-time favorites.... that canyon is so dreamy!!
I get a half chub just thinking about that place :lol:
"Do it"

dustonian
BANNED
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:46 am
Location: Lex/Zoe

Re: Speak Up!

Post by dustonian » Fri Mar 30, 2012 9:35 am

Nice Clif! FRC is still high on the list these days in my opinion.

I forgot about this thread for traditional spray. Scott Hammon and I did a pretty rad 5.10 the other day at Chocolate Factory... "Strongyloides," named for a parasitic nematode that enters the bloodstream and then intestine via bare feet, apparently endemic to Kentucky. Super steep, super wide, super scary-looking, but really not that hard thanks to the ability to stem and butt/shoulder-scum your way up the thing. Very fun atypical climbing with a couple of nice armbars and full turn-around manuevers before the juggy exit moves to a nice bolted anchor on a ledge.

Anyway it's just right of the Golden Ticket and Pure Imagination in the big obscene-looking corner system. Gear up to 4 or 5", belay on top to avoid sucking your cams back into the gaping maw when lowering. Stays wet after rain and has a bit of lichen, but it will clean up well and the rock is high quality. Get on it!
Attachments
Strongyloides2.jpg
Strongyloides2.jpg (247.82 KiB) Viewed 1789 times

toad857
Loser
Loser
Posts: 1691
Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2007 12:31 pm

Re: Speak Up!

Post by toad857 » Fri Mar 30, 2012 10:26 am

Cleveland wrote:
dustonian wrote:Eldo is one of my all-time favorites.... that canyon is so dreamy!!
I get a half chub just thinking about that place :lol:
planning a trip for July--maybe to Eldorado canyon. Too hot, maybe? Any thoughts?

dustonian
BANNED
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:46 am
Location: Lex/Zoe

Re: Speak Up!

Post by dustonian » Fri Mar 30, 2012 10:29 am

Yeah pretty hot. You will be chasing shade for sure.... Eldo is great on cold days. You might get lucky though. Get on the Edge for sure if temps reasonable... one of the best anywhere. Bastille Buttress is pretty shady... Outer Space Direct etc.

Lumpy Ridge, RMNP, and South Platte will be goin off...
Last edited by dustonian on Fri Mar 30, 2012 10:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

dustonian
BANNED
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:46 am
Location: Lex/Zoe

Re: Speak Up!

Post by dustonian » Fri Mar 30, 2012 10:30 am

On another note, I heard a rumor that Horatio sprad-climbed Dracula!?! True??

Cleveland
Wannabe Rock Junkie
Posts: 385
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 12:47 pm
Location: Covington, KY
Contact:

Re: Speak Up!

Post by Cleveland » Fri Mar 30, 2012 10:30 am

toad857 wrote:
Cleveland wrote:
dustonian wrote:Eldo is one of my all-time favorites.... that canyon is so dreamy!!
I get a half chub just thinking about that place :lol:
planning a trip for July--maybe to Eldorado canyon. Too hot, maybe? Any thoughts?
Did you post on Mountain Project too?
"Do it"

toad857
Loser
Loser
Posts: 1691
Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2007 12:31 pm

Re: Speak Up!

Post by toad857 » Fri Mar 30, 2012 10:49 am

yeah, i did. actually, i have no idea where to go. could use advice from the globe trotters... could be anywhere in the US. 10 day trip in July. looking for easy/moderate adventure, but not looking for mosquitos, big crowds, or anything too "alpine". limited multi pitch experience, but that's exactly what we're after. tall stuff, good for a half-day's adventure or more.

if i could find somewhere with a route equivalent to 20 "bedtime for bonzos" stacked up on top of each other, I'd go there. know what i mean?

dustonian
BANNED
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:46 am
Location: Lex/Zoe

Re: Speak Up!

Post by dustonian » Fri Mar 30, 2012 10:56 am

If you want easy and long, then ideally you would do the first and third flatirons to start out... pretty much the first formations you hit after escaping the infinite cornfields of Kansas and eastern CO. However, there are seasonal closures usually until July 31 or so:

http://flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpre ... -closures/

If you don't want alpine, your options are more limited for long stuff in CO and WY. Lumpy Ridge would be a must, as would Bastille Crack and Wind Tower in Eldo... hot weather could be a plus to keep crowds down. South Platte has some great stuff but it's shorter and kind of dispersed. Otherwise if you can stomach the hiking and altitude, get up into RMNP for the megaclassics... Petit Grepon, Spearhead, Diamond. Tetons and Wind Rivers in WY.

How far west are you going? Little Cottonwood Canyon has great stuff outside of SLC, and Tuolumne Meadows/High Sierra has many lifetimes worth of long awesome moderates. Yosemite Valley is too hot and crowded in July... not recommended.

Post Reply