Good trad crag

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dfspau2
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Good trad crag

Post by dfspau2 » Fri Nov 04, 2011 10:11 am

Looking for a good trad crag to go to this saturday with good 8's and 9's that would be dry?
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krampus
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Re: Good trad crag

Post by krampus » Fri Nov 04, 2011 11:01 am

I hear most of the mother load goes on gear, now that the PD's are gone the lines are probably shorter
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Re: Good trad crag

Post by rjackson » Fri Nov 04, 2011 11:49 am

Hard to think of a crag with multiple good trad 8s and 9s, most crags will only have one or two of each that will rate "good" overall. Might be best to look at the guide and see which route you might want to do, then reverse engineer for dryness (you can also do a specific search for dry routes). I think it's gonna be a crap shoot tomorrow for most trad lines as some will seep, some will run, some will be bone dry and some will be dry by the end of the day and then some in various stages in between... Just get out there somewhere and make the best of what you find, and maybe have a back up plan (the Lode)?
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Re: Good trad crag

Post by climb2core » Fri Nov 04, 2011 12:22 pm

rjackson wrote:Hard to think of a crag with multiple good trad 8s and 9s...
Ok, I am a total sport wanker, so I really have no idea.. but, I do know how to use the search app on my iphone:

Tower Rock
5.8: 3, 4 stars
5.9: 1 4 stars

Muscle Beach
5.8: 1, 4 stars & 1 5 stars
5.9: 2, 4 stars

Long Wall:
5.9: 2, 4 stars, and 1, 5 star

Fortress Wall:
5.8: 1, 4 star
5.9: 1, 4 star & 1, 5 star

Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
5.8: 1, 4 star
5.9: 2, 4 star

Eagle Point Buttress:
5.9: 2, 4 star & 1, 5 star

Pebble Beach:
5.8: 1, 4 star
5.9: 1, 5 star
Last edited by climb2core on Fri Nov 04, 2011 12:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Good trad crag

Post by rjackson » Fri Nov 04, 2011 12:35 pm

Yeah, I can use a search engine too, so why are you quoting me?
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Re: Good trad crag

Post by climb2core » Fri Nov 04, 2011 12:40 pm

Just that you said it was hard to think of a crag with good multiple 8's and 9's. No disrespect intended.

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Re: Good trad crag

Post by krampus » Fri Nov 04, 2011 12:58 pm

tower rock is fun but the best climbs are the harder ones, don't go to muscle beach unless you have plenty of trad experience and #5's and #6's (old school OW, very scary), Easter Sky Bridge is also pretty rough for 8's and 9's

Pebble beach is great, so is pistol ridge. Look for some multipitch too, some of those are great.
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Re: Good trad crag

Post by rjackson » Fri Nov 04, 2011 1:33 pm

No problem... I basically said what you posted... one or two of each per crag, that's a total of 2-4 per. By your post...

Tower Rock
total: 4

Muscle Beach
total: 4

Long Wall:
total: 3

Fortress Wall:
total: 3

Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
total: 3

Eagle Point Buttress:
total: 3

Pebble Beach:
total: 2

I was just going to let the originator do the work. Seemed like kind of a generic, lazy post...
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Re: Good trad crag

Post by caribe » Fri Nov 04, 2011 1:40 pm

rjackson wrote:Muscle Beach total: 4
Stellar!!

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Re: Good trad crag

Post by rjackson » Fri Nov 04, 2011 1:50 pm

Any old school 8 or 9 with 4-5 stars is going to be good (actually great!), but if you aren't experienced, it's also going to be a handful. And since you had to ask, be warned, the "+" at the end of an old school 8 or 9 will probably have you pooing your pants at some point on the route.
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Re: Good trad crag

Post by toad857 » Fri Nov 04, 2011 3:00 pm

long wall

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Re: Good trad crag

Post by chester » Fri Nov 04, 2011 6:45 pm

Wall of Denial...long walk in...so you know you will pretty much be alone for the day. :-)
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Re: Good trad crag

Post by ynot » Fri Nov 04, 2011 9:28 pm

Clearcut. 2 eights that stay dry all the time .one is stellar and the other is ok. Enough other routes there to keep you busy.
Tower is the best place but the lines arent always dry.
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