Rebar

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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Willy
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Rebar

Post by Willy » Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:33 am

Really want to try out Rebar this season but not sure if I have enough small gear. I have four aliens (red, green, grey, yellow)
.5 and .75 BD cams and the rest of my rack is pretty standard. Any tips or beta is appreciated. Not looking to onsight this bad boy just need to not get stranded. Also worst case scenario is it possible to get to the anchors of rebar by climbing broken chicken wing first?

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Re: Rebar

Post by EricDorsey » Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:38 am

We top roped Rebar after leading broken chicken wing.

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Re: Rebar

Post by dustonian » Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:40 am

probably enough gear, but might be a bit light if you're at your limit. you can protect much of the bottom bit with hand-size gear in bcw and slings.

I remember that the anchors of these two routes are pretty close so I guess a TR would be easy enough. you can def toprope fubar from the rebar anchor! ;)

more importantly, are they dimpled aliens?

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Re: Rebar

Post by ahab » Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:44 pm

dustonian wrote:more importantly, are they dimpled aliens?

Fer Chrissake.
buy the Ticket take the Ride

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Re: Rebar

Post by dustonian » Sat Feb 25, 2012 12:23 am

hahaha

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Willy
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Re: Rebar

Post by Willy » Sun Feb 26, 2012 8:37 pm

They are the new aliens from fixe so no quality worries

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Re: Rebar

Post by toad857 » Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:55 am

that climb has the slickest holds ever. have fun! the bottom half takes big nuts, but it will also accept large nuts for protection.

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Re: Rebar

Post by dustonian » Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:23 am

Willy wrote:They are the new aliens from fixe so no quality worries


dayum you must be rich son

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Re: Rebar

Post by cliftongifford » Tue Feb 28, 2012 11:32 am

dustonian wrote:
Willy wrote:They are the new aliens from fixe so no quality worries


dayum you must be rich son

Kinda what I was thinking... those are more expensive than the dmm dragons.

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Re: Rebar

Post by Willy » Tue Feb 28, 2012 11:27 pm

I figure my life was worth the investment

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Re: Rebar

Post by dustonian » Tue Feb 28, 2012 11:37 pm

Aliens are kind of a rip if you are looking for an investment in safety, they are far narrower and offer less holding power than a comparable BD or Metolius cam. They are really best suited to granite in my opinion and comparatively sketchy in all but the very hardest sandstone... ie, not the Red.

That said, want to sell them? ;)

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Re: Rebar

Post by Willy » Sat Mar 10, 2012 7:04 pm

Why exactly are do they have less holding power than similiar sized BD and metolius cams? You mean the heads aren't as wide? I would trust my aliens in any type of stone over C3's

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Re: Rebar

Post by batguano » Fri Mar 16, 2012 7:53 am

Pay no mind, Willy. He probably just wants your aliens.

The width of the head has no real relation to strength. Wider lobes, however, could create a theoretical advantage by spreading the applied force over a larger area. Cams with four lobes can do this better than those with three. This does nothing to lower the over-all force applied to a cam in a fall, it just (in theory) allows the force to dissipate into the rock over a larger area. This is mostly a point of theoretical contention and any real-world results are likely to be inconclusive. Other factors, like the quantity and quality of your gear placements will have a greater effect on the outcome of the situation.

A cam with a narrow head width (not the width of the lobes) will increase the usability to a certain extent. Aliens excel in this area.

CCH used to do some neat stuff with their designs. If you find that kind of thing interesting, that is. They used to use a higher camming angle to increase range, something like 16 degrees, which has (I think) been the highest on the market. Then, they offset the disadvantages of this design by making the lobes from a softer alloy. That's why the lobes on some of the older aliens get chewed up and tend to mushroom. Neat-O, right? Not sure if Fixe is still doing it this way or not.
weather is occurring.

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Re: Rebar

Post by dustonian » Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:17 am

That's just my experience and in casual hearsay, seen and heard many stories of well-placed Aliens pulling out in soft sandstone (here, Zion, Moab) due to the concentration of load & "crumble" factor. That said, yeah they're likely better than any tcu and I place them in the Red all the time--but not without thinking a little about the consequences of skating & pull-out. Where they really excel IMO is harder sandstone, quartzite & granite--especially in deep placements, pin scars, and aid climbing.... indispensable in Yosemite.

Just my 1 cent...I'm sure they're fine in the Red, but having caught a few fucked up falls in the Creek, I think twice. Never pulled on me (knock on aluminum), but I'm kind of a puss and don't fall that often on gear. Batguano is a lot more of a bad ass and he's still alive, so... don't know if he ever touches thin cracks tho ;)

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Re: Rebar

Post by caribe » Fri Mar 16, 2012 10:25 pm

dustonian wrote:That's just my experience and in casual hearsay,
yep! Wait until the end to see exactly what rips out of this crack.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQ854rwQZUI

A couple email exchanges that I had with an engineer at Metolius offered a first hand account of real experimentation confirming Batguano's opinion about 3 vs. 4 lobes on sandstone. I use 4 lobes with smaller gear in Metolius and from 0.5 up in BD.

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