The Haas Memorial Route/Volunteer wall

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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dnietosi
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The Haas Memorial Route/Volunteer wall

Post by dnietosi » Wed May 16, 2012 5:21 pm

Anyone that has done it can give me some recommendations about gear. It looks very wide all the way.

Thanks,

David

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caribe
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Re: The Haas Memorial Route/Volunteer wall

Post by caribe » Sun May 20, 2012 4:07 am

From the bottom it looks like the route tops out. It does not. You have to take a sharp left at the top about 2 body lengths to get to a set of bolts. I removed two very sketchy draws from the top a few weeks ago. Take some safe draws or stop at Miguel's and ask for a couple perma draws (free) before you head down to the Southern Region. I'd just leave them up there. I can't remember what we left up there and I was the last one to do the route, sorry. When you begin protect yourself until you can get to the point at which the corner takes the crack straight up. I think a #2 and or a #1 worked swimmingly at that point. We removed the other protection below that to avoid rope drag. Take three #5's and a couple #4's down to #1, you are going to be placing gear back into the crack, so you need a few runners, not so important at the very start of the route, where regular dog bone draws suffice. At the very top where he exited stage left, my buddy placed a #6 which walked around into a wacky position. You don't need it. You can bury a #5 in a nearly equivalent position by putting a long runner on it.

dnietosi
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Re: The Haas Memorial Route/Volunteer wall

Post by dnietosi » Wed May 23, 2012 6:10 pm

Three #5's? That's too much for my slowly growing rack.

Thanks a lot for the info though. The route looks very cool. :)

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