First 5.14 trad in the Red

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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caribe
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First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by caribe » Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:04 pm

I heard a rumor that on Saturday the hardest trad lead in the Red was established by Andrew Gearing at 5.14a at Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge. Very thin protection on a series of micro-nuts through a thin crux.
Damn I want to get gender reassignment and have children with that dude. :shock:
Any body got any more details . . . location, or pictures?
It is amazing that in the past ~month the hardest trad grade has taken three jumps 5.13a --> 5.13a/b ---> 5.13c ---> 5.14x
dustonian on Tues Apr 10, 2012 wrote:'Enzo' and Etienne also borrowed a noticeably meager selection of my cams to fire the first true redpoint leads of Charlie (13a/b) right next door (formerly the hardest trad route in the Red until Andrew Gearing sent Sacred Geometry (13c) Saturday at Long Wall)."

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by Spikeddem » Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:45 pm

There are some iPhone pictures to be had if the person that has them posts 'em up.

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milspecmark
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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by milspecmark » Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:47 pm

Wow, that is amazing.

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by Yasmeen » Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:57 pm

Way to keep tearing it up, Andrew!
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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by whoneedsfeet » Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:18 pm

Spikeddem wrote:There are some iPhone pictures to be had if the person that has them posts 'em up.
They were posted to Facebook if you are lucky enough to be said person's friend.
Skipping cruxes is a way of life.

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by Cramsie » Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:26 pm

I've seem 'em and I don't even climb anymore.

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by One-Fall » Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:41 pm

Andrew is for sure one of the coolest guys around.
Can't we all just get along?

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by Cromper » Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:45 pm

Andrew freed the aid line to the right of King Me. Super cool to see such a milestone in person! I'll try to post a picture soon. Etienne took some amazing pictures from above as well!
Last edited by Cromper on Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by caribe » Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:35 pm

Etienne says he is selling the pictures to a climbing mag . . . he is smiling too big to be taken seriously . . . so . . . let's see the photos.

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by captain static » Mon Jun 04, 2012 8:48 pm

Mr. Gearing is The Man! I hope they do sell those photos to a climbing mag. It would be about time the Red get the attention it deserves for its trad climbing.
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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by clif » Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:20 pm

sooo... is this the same line as "Right on, Solid, and Far out?"

because, as a little person history is where i keep giants at an amusing distance. trying to understand, i read up on Sonnie T's site, the only person i'm familiar with sending 14 trad (and B. Rodden, i guess? whatev--) who had about 20+ listed. then, it all came together. ST had MV listed as a hero.... me too, dood!
Last edited by clif on Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by Cromper » Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:03 pm

clif wrote:sooo... is this the same line as "Right on, Solid, and Far out?"
Yup

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by caribe » Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:13 pm

Wow, I just saw the photos tonight.
1) Trad in the Red is not dead. Neither is the piton. This is just plain kool stuff!!
2) Holy crap! Andrew is F-n crazy and F-n powerful!
3) I guess Etienne is serious about a more lucrative, journalistic outlet for his photos so the world is going to have wait.
Super exciting!!!

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by dustonian » Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:02 am

.
Last edited by dustonian on Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:37 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: First 5.14 trad in the Red

Post by Cromper » Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:14 am

Crappy iPhone buttshots:

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