Have you ever placed a pin?

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?

Have you placed a piton?

Yes
9
22%
No
31
76%
What's a piton?
1
2%
 
Total votes: 41

captain static
Hippifried
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:05 pm
Location: On Yonder Mountain
Contact:

Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by captain static » Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:40 pm

Well have you?
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh

Cromper
Poser
Poser
Posts: 335
Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:25 pm
Location: Lexington

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by Cromper » Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:47 pm

I like this thread already!

LK Day
Lame Wade
Lame Wade
Posts: 445
Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:47 pm

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by LK Day » Fri Jun 08, 2012 11:00 pm

I've placed a few, even drilled a few holes and hammered angles into them, Colorado Springs style. But I've climbed past dozens of pins without clipping them just for the challenge of finding good "natural" placements. Climbing can be a funny game. Most of the pins I've placed have been in a winter alpine environment.
Last edited by LK Day on Sat Jun 09, 2012 10:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.

dustonian
BANNED
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:46 am
Location: Lex/Zoe

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by dustonian » Fri Jun 08, 2012 11:07 pm

I've placed more than I care to admit in Yosemite... funny game indeed, with the clean-aid movement on El Cap, most folks actually like to obfuscate their pin tally rather than advertise it. That said, few things in this world are more satisfying that driving home a bomber piton way over your head while high-stepping on some horrifying hook or mank bashie... we got away with 4 on the NA Wall but I would have been happier with zero.

kdelap
Sublime
Posts: 152
Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 12:33 pm
Location: Brevard, NC
Contact:

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by kdelap » Sat Jun 09, 2012 7:43 am

place them in the alpine all the time...
http://www.foxmountainguides.com

KD
Pooparazzo
Posts: 3163
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 9:21 pm
Location: Under the sky so blue

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by KD » Sat Jun 09, 2012 11:08 am

When I used to cave, we used them a lot to rig traverses and pits and the like. I still have a couple around here someplace. They were called "lost arrows" and Great Pacific made them until they changed their name to Black Diamond. You could almost tell by the sound if they were solidly in or not. There was a blade kind and a wide kind called a bong that was kind of like a steel taco folded over with holes drilled in it to make it lighter. With all the climbers around today the gorge would be reduced to rubble by now if they were still used. Honestly, I doubt if the rock quality in much of the Gorge would hold one for long if you took a modern-day fall. We didn't fall on them in caving, but we did hang on them a lot; everything was always static, static ropes, hip belays, and all that scary shit.

Spikeddem
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 188
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2011 9:08 pm

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by Spikeddem » Sat Jun 09, 2012 6:11 pm

By alpine do you guys mean overhanging routes?

Crankmas
Fred Garvin, male prostitute
Posts: 3965
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 1:24 pm
Location: Winchester, KY

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by Crankmas » Sat Jun 09, 2012 9:28 pm

the pin on Central at Pebble

captain static
Hippifried
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:05 pm
Location: On Yonder Mountain
Contact:

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by captain static » Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:23 am

That' what I thought. Mostly old timers. I started climbing in 1971 (yes I am that old) right on the cusp of the clean climbing revolution. On of my first climbing partners had machine nust with the threads ground out on his rack. My experience back then was using pins for aid.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh

KD
Pooparazzo
Posts: 3163
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 9:21 pm
Location: Under the sky so blue

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by KD » Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:43 pm

So Bill, my question is who pinned a route recently? I'm assuming the forest service or somebody found a shiny new one someplace and we got blamed and you are looking for info. :)

User avatar
clif
Loser
Loser
Posts: 1731
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 5:24 pm

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by clif » Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:32 pm

does it count if it's removable?
training is for people who care, i have a job.

bentley
The Man
Posts: 275
Joined: Fri Dec 09, 2005 1:34 pm

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by bentley » Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:24 am

I have placed a flat head screw driver, seems to count for me.
Climbing is not free. Support your local climbing organization. Labor and money precious resources!

megmay
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 45
Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2011 5:22 pm

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by megmay » Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:46 am

Once in a very blue moon, I think a pin might make a good addition to a questionable gear line when your trying to keep the bolt-free flavor and you dont want a premature dirt nap ... if'n:

-no bizarre array of equalized screamered jazz will be equivalent or better than the pin
-the bolt would really detract from the route ... chances are if you've got time to bang a pin on lead you could also hook and drill
-your going to clean it well in the hopes that it will someday make a nice home for a small nut
-your really cheap and have boxes of old military surplus ringed pins in the garage just begging for a day of glory
-something something about appropriate public display of your pecker ...

*Perhaps the last two criteria seem like a stretch, what else am I missing? Oh yes, you can prove to your fellow trad wankers that you really do own all those silly aid widgets which most defiantly haven't sat unadmired at your past three garage sales.

dustonian
BANNED
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:46 am
Location: Lex/Zoe

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by dustonian » Tue Jun 12, 2012 10:46 am

megmay wrote: the bolt would really detract from the route ... chances are if you've got time to bang a pin on lead you could also hook and drill.
This is true, but I would surmise that you have probably never drilled a bolt by hand on lead. Placing a pin in a nice seam takes 10 seconds, a bolt takes a minimum of 30 minutes or more (way more for 3-4" x 1/2" bolts in Corbin sandstone from the EXISTING anchors I have replaced in Clifty). For that reason alone, your belayer will HATE you if you decide you need to drill. In addition, a bolt requires creating a new hole for the metal to enter, whereas a pin is placed in a natural feature of the rock (albeit one too small or incipient for RPs, slider nuts, or tiny cams). This is a critical difference, from both aesthetic and regulatory standpoints. When putting in a new route ground-up, it is always preferable to place a pin rather than a bolt if you have no other options. Bolting on lead is usually last-resort/maybe-we-should-bail/maybe-this-should-be-a-sport-route-instead/out-of-all-other-options territory. A bomber piton, by contrast, is like a gift from above when you are strung out on several bad RPs or sketchy flared cams in a row.

Howie Feltersnatch
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 51
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:16 pm

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Post by Howie Feltersnatch » Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:32 am

dustonian wrote:
megmay wrote: the bolt would really detract from the route ... chances are if you've got time to bang a pin on lead you could also hook and drill.
This is true, but I would surmise that you have probably never drilled a bolt by hand on lead. Placing a pin in a nice seam takes 10 seconds, a bolt takes a minimum of 30 minutes or more (way more for 3-4" x 1/2" bolts in Corbin sandstone from the EXISTING anchors I have replaced in Clifty). For that reason alone, your belayer will HATE you if you decide you need to drill. In addition, a bolt requires creating a new hole for the metal to enter, whereas a pin is placed in a natural feature of the rock (albeit one too small or incipient for RPs, slider nuts, or tiny cams). This is a critical difference, from both aesthetic and regulatory standpoints. When putting in a new route ground-up, it is always preferable to place a pin rather than a bolt if you have no other options. Bolting on lead is usually last-resort/maybe-we-should-bail/maybe-this-should-be-a-sport-route-instead/out-of-all-other-options territory. A bomber piton, by contrast, is like a gift from above when you are strung out on several bad RPs or sketchy flared cams in a row.

You would surmise incorrectly about her experience hand drilling.

What the rest of that should have read is:
Doing ground up routes is very hard work. I like placing pins because they are quicker and easier than hand drilling.

Meg has a lot of experience doing ground up routes, being strung out on sketchy gear, and driving pins. Because someone doesn't agree with you, doesn't mean that you are to surmise that they are inexperienced and give them a discourse on how to do new routes.

Post Reply