Tower of Power Repeated!

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?

Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby LK Day » Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:52 pm

And don't even consider falling before you get the tricam in. I still think the slung flake is more a theoretical piece of protection. A theory we'd probably be better off not testing. I've added another photo to the online guide. It shows the runner at the lip (tricam placement) and some small wired pieces that I fiddled in while sitting on the big flake. I do not recall the wires as being very confidence inspiring.
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby caribe » Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:23 am

LK Day wrote:And don't even consider falling before you get the tricam in.
If it did not scare you to death, and if the prow would not come down on you Wile E. Coyote-style, I think the fall would probably be clean!
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby Crankmas » Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:15 pm

how can anyone not like trad climbing? Thanks for reopening my eyes guys
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby LK Day » Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:58 pm

The head game of trad always held great appeal for me. I think I enjoyed solving challenging protection problems almost as much as the climbing itself.
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby pigsteak » Wed Jun 13, 2012 1:23 pm

biting my tongue....;)
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby LK Day » Wed Jun 13, 2012 2:26 pm

pigsteak wrote:biting my tongue....;)


Aw, come on man. "Those who can climb, do. Those who can't, fiddle around with gear" Piggie

See, it's easy. :)
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby rjackson » Thu Jun 14, 2012 10:59 am

Ahhh... Mr Pigsteak... I saw the glint in your eye on your last ground up FA.

Also, I totally agree with Larry, nothing better for your head game than "fiddlin' with gear" and quite often the puzzle is as exciting as the climbing.
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby Wolf » Fri Jun 15, 2012 12:16 am

caribe wrote:
LK Day wrote:And don't even consider falling before you get the tricam in.
If it did not scare you to death, and if the prow would not come down on you Wile E. Coyote-style, I think the fall would probably be clean!



I have no doubt that the slung flake/prow would hold a fall, but there is another pointy prow laying in wait underneath that I think you could swing into with bad results. The tricam placement is super bomber, but not super obvious. I missed it the first several times I came out from under the roof. I was cursing Larry's memory and had resolved to go with a number 4 stopper that wasn't optimal when I finally saw the placement. After you pull the roof and get on the face, a few moves get you to a good number 1 cam placement followed shortly by a bomber #3 cam placement, both in horizontals. Larry may not have noticed these because of his limited cams, or he may have traversed farther right before topping out. I went to the left of the tree, although going to the right of it looked less shrubby but more rope draggy and less direct.
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby LK Day » Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:44 am

I think Caribe was joking with the Wile E. Coyote imagery. Like you I don't think the flake would fail, just that it would be a nasty fall. Great news that there is protection above the tricam placement. I was carrying #1 and a #2 rigid stemmed Friends. I simply missed the #1 placement and the #2 placement was so poor that I didn't bother with it the second time I climbed that pitch. I believe the line I took went up and maybe slightly right. Very clean series of mantels on steep, sound rock with no bushes or rope drag.
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby Wolf » Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:42 am

If I hadn't put in those hand-sized pieces in the horizontals there wouldn't have been any rope drag being farther right and it would have been cleaner. My guess is that you went that way.
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby LK Day » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:29 pm

So Dan, did you have "fun"? Are you glad you did it? It sounded like Caribe was pretty stoked, but if you've offered an opinion I missed it. Just wondering. In any event, congratulations on a fine lead of a mean old classic.
Last edited by LK Day on Wed Aug 01, 2012 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby SCIN » Wed Aug 01, 2012 1:34 pm

Is it really a classic if only 5 people have climbed it?
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby LK Day » Wed Aug 01, 2012 1:57 pm

Good Question. An instant classic in '79 and it remains one today. A nasty, mean old classic, just ask Caribe. To the best of my knowledge a grand total of four people have climbed it from the ground up in traditional style. But who's counting.
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby Wolf » Thu Aug 02, 2012 10:43 am

I had fun, no need for quotation marks. I'm definitely glad I did it. It was one of my more memorable climbs.

As for classic, classic is in the eye of the climber. The first pitch would probably keep me from calling this a classic, but I'd still recommend Tower of Power to a certain type of climber. Sharma probably considers Jumbo Love a classic, but it's only seen one ascent.
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Re: Tower of Power Repeated!

Postby SCIN » Thu Aug 02, 2012 11:06 am

Wow, classic is really getting misinterpreted.
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