By the numbers.

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
LK Day
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By the numbers.

Post by LK Day » Fri Oct 05, 2012 9:52 pm

How hard do you climb sport?
How hard do you climb trad?

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climb2core
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Re: By the numbers.

Post by climb2core » Fri Oct 05, 2012 9:55 pm

5.12
5.not

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pigsteak
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Re: By the numbers.

Post by pigsteak » Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:36 pm

onsight or redpoint? on a best day or consistently? in perfect temps or sweaty sack summer?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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Re: By the numbers.

Post by SCIN » Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:47 pm

I've climbed sport with a moderate hard-on but trad has been nothing more than a little chubbing up when I have thin shorts on.
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LK Day
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Re: By the numbers.

Post by LK Day » Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:43 am

Piggie has more questions than answers, c2c climbs way harder on sport and SCIN climbs harder on sport, but not all that hard. Anyone else?

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Re: By the numbers.

Post by LK Day » Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:53 am

Wow, this polling thing isn't as easy as it looks. But our flash poll indicates that the average Red River Weenie climbs 5.12 sport while sporting a moderate chubbie and hardly climbs trad at all. While scientifically valid, we must point out that fully one third of respondents don't understand the question.

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Re: By the numbers.

Post by krampus » Sat Oct 06, 2012 9:20 am

Damn, everybody gives Day all kinds of shit for spraying his political opinion (however crazy it may be), then clams up when he posts about climbing. It's like were actually are on the internet or something.

Onsite:
12b sport
11b trad

redpoint:
12c sport
11c trad

I am working diligently to close the gap. There are not enough low 12 trad routs in the red though. Its like you gotta jump from 11c to 12c in one step. I'm all about the baby steps. Its hard to compare the dificulty of the two though, trad is way more full body endurance than sport so I guess you could say its harder but at the same time, once the beta is figured out the trad seems to go down quickly.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared

LK Day
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Re: By the numbers.

Post by LK Day » Sat Oct 06, 2012 10:45 am

Krampus - Absolutely right, by far the most efficient way to move up through the grades is in baby steps. When I lived in the Bay area in the late '70s, a climbing partner of mine was a friend of the young phenom, Peter Mayfield. Peter had composed a list of virtually every pitch in the valley, in order of difficulty, segregated by type (fingers, hands, fists, etc.) and was methodically working his way up the list. Imagine climbing every 10c thin hands pitch from easiest to hardest, then on to 10d. It had never occurred to me to be nearly so methodical, but it's a brilliant approach. The result was that Peter climbed with an easy and fluid style that was hard to imagine.
Trying to use this approach in the Red has always been problematic but no less important. In the early pre-cam era, climbing in the Red just got way too hard way too fast for most people and very few were able to make the transition from beginner to even modestly competent leader.
Last edited by LK Day on Sat Oct 06, 2012 4:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: By the numbers.

Post by One-Fall » Sat Oct 06, 2012 3:57 pm

LK Day wrote:How hard do you climb sport?
How hard do you climb trad?
Curious as to what brought this to mind, Larry.

Consistently onsight mid 11 sport.
Consistently redpoint mid 12 sport.

My only trad lead is Bongo.
I'm not working very hard at closing the gap :)
Can't we all just get along?

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Re: By the numbers.

Post by camhead » Sat Oct 06, 2012 4:33 pm

I've done climbs while placing gear that are just as hard as climbs I've done clipping bolts. I wouldn't call that "trad," though.

Trad originally meant ground-up, onsight, and every time you fell, you lowered to the ground and tried again. Sometimes you clipped bolts, other times you clipped pins, and other times you placed gear.

By that criteria, my hardest trad climb is Tuna Town:)
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!

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Re: By the numbers.

Post by clif » Sat Oct 06, 2012 4:37 pm

krampus wrote:There are not enough low 12 trad routs in the red though. Its like you gotta jump from 11c to 12c in one step..
true enough, but there must be dozens of 12- routes in the Red that could be lead on gear---head and shoulders comes to mind, and maybe pine, bmt, dave the dude?

anyway, it's up to you because it's all i can do to climb 10's, sport or trad.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: By the numbers.

Post by caribe » Sun Oct 07, 2012 6:18 pm

Redpoint 5.10d-11a trad
"" 5.12a sport.

Working hard to close the gap. I am all but convinced that trad is intrinsically more difficult. The learning curve seems steeper with sport. One reason might be that trad is wilder, less house-broken than sport.

We are going to have to find more gear routes in the ref. Dustin Stephens pretty much has shown us that they are out there to discover.

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Re: By the numbers.

Post by caribe » Sun Oct 07, 2012 6:30 pm

I think I smell your cooking Larry, but at this point it is mystery meat. What exactly is for dinner here?

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Re: By the numbers.

Post by dustonian » Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:06 pm

5.fun sport, 5.sketch trad

Go check out Bloodline, Joely... and I've heard Cascading Wind & Vascular Massacre are really good too.

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Re: By the numbers.

Post by rjackson » Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:28 pm

dustonian wrote:5.fun sport, 5.sketch trad
+1

A perfect descriptive...
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
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