Who's line is it?

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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climb2core
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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by climb2core » Wed Oct 17, 2012 1:13 pm

Andrew wrote:
Michael_W wrote:Didn't know until this morning that EGBG had attracted some attention. I suppose it is part of my learning curve that I bolted it precisely as I did. I expect this will disappoint some, but the younger Wheatley had nothing to do with bolting that route. Yea, he keeps trying to take credit for all the cool stuff I put up. But, that's kids for you. Rag him all you want. You have my permission. 8)
Damn dad.. Maybe your worst attempt of defending your son. You and caribe are now on my black list.

You are a dad now, you should get it.

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by dustonian » Wed Oct 17, 2012 1:19 pm

Honestly Ian I don't think anyone really gives 2 shits about the whole thing, except maybe mighty Meg ... you just created a nice excuse for everyone to spray down a bit during a horrendously boring work week smack dab in the middle of the nicest weather window for climbing all year... woe is us.

Now, off to the Lode and then Choco for a spectacular new rap-bolted sport route just teeming with sketchy potential tricam placements! Later suckers!! ;)

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by clif » Wed Oct 17, 2012 2:05 pm

climb2core wrote:...We should not ignore those who question new climbing developments or who are concerned about ethical and stylistic matters; how we climb does matter. The point is that we need to maintain some humility about today’s issues ...

Worth reading, and somewhat supportive of Pigsteak.
nonsense, show me a Pigsteak post with even the slightest signs of humility-
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by climb2core » Wed Oct 17, 2012 2:26 pm

Humility... He is the only that has it. Everyone else's viewpoint has assumed they have some superior ethical ground to stand on and that their position is somehow better.

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by clif » Wed Oct 17, 2012 2:28 pm

you've clearly have not understood what you've read
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by TradMike » Wed Oct 17, 2012 2:35 pm

Minimizing bolt use, particually where trad gear will work well, protects climbing for future generations. Look at the top of Fuzzy, pretty soon there won't be any locations left to place a bolt. Even stainless glue-ins will fatigue fail over time.

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by climb2core » Wed Oct 17, 2012 2:39 pm

Consider for just a moment that it is you that has it backwards. Give up the hip belay and look to the future.

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by LK Day » Wed Oct 17, 2012 2:56 pm

climb2core wrote:Consider for just a moment that it is you that has it backwards. Give up the hip belay and look to the future.
When your position is indefensible just resort to lame put-downs.

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by pigsteak » Wed Oct 17, 2012 2:58 pm

LK Day wrote:
climb2core wrote:Consider for just a moment that it is you that has it backwards. Give up the hip belay and look to the future.
When your position is indefensible just resort to lame put-downs.
trust him on this one.....
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by EricDorsey » Wed Oct 17, 2012 3:18 pm

Michael_W wrote:Didn't know until this morning that EGBG had attracted some attention. I suppose it is part of my learning curve that I bolted it precisely as I did. I expect this will disappoint some, but the younger Wheatley had nothing to do with bolting that route. Yea, he keeps trying to take credit for all the cool stuff I put up. But, that's kids for you. Rag him all you want. You have my permission. 8)
Thanks Mike and Andrew. Looking forward to getting on it this weekend!

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by pigsteak » Wed Oct 17, 2012 3:52 pm

one final note here and I am played out..I notice the the pure traddies suggest rapping down 7 meters to the, gasp, bolted anchors of EGBG, and then on to the ground..not sure why, but I find that comical in the finest way....no sport route anchors, what would you guys have done to get off?

tia
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by Jeff » Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:35 pm

Image

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by Shamis » Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:44 pm

Jeff wrote:Image
love it

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by megmay » Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:50 pm

pigsteak wrote:one final note here and I am played out..I notice the the pure traddies suggest rapping down 7 meters to the, gasp, bolted anchors of EGBG, and then on to the ground..not sure why, but I find that comical in the finest way....no sport route anchors, what would you guys have done to get off?

tia

Heh, piggy doesn't know how to get off. You should try ethical rants, that's how I get off ... damn keyboard is stickier than this thread.

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Re: Who's line is it?

Post by clif » Wed Oct 17, 2012 5:24 pm

heeey :wink:

i'm heading over to muscle beach to bolt a few beginner wide cracks and spray paint c2c getting F'ed by cromper's mom, call me
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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