Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
tania
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Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by tania » Sat Nov 10, 2012 5:49 pm

Looks like I may be out of sport climbing commission for a while. Was thinking I could try some trad climbing in hopes there won't be a lot of crimps or pockets I'll be pulling on. I'd love to hear your recommendations!!!
"Life is a balance of holding on and letting go." ~Keith Urban

dustonian
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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by dustonian » Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:13 pm

Good Times
No Return
Autumn
Rock Wars
Two Step
Vector Trouble
Handjob
Good Tang
Dicey at Best
Headstone Surfer
Cruising Lane
Indecision
Walk the Line
Strongyloides
Haas Memorial Route
When Gravity Fails/others at Muscle
Anything at Fortress
Lorax Tree
Whiteout Direct (must do)
Shining
Casual Viewing
Vision
Blue Biner
Cruise Control
Day Tripping (mid-10 but not too tweaky)
Stormtrooper
Broken Chicken Wing
Lots more in southern region...

Was that more than 10? Sorry...

crazyhair
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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by crazyhair » Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:48 pm

Whiteout
Cheaper Than a Movie
Snake and Blue Runner (Bonzo)
GI
Party-time
Strick 9 (Bongo's pretty fun too while you're out there)
Crack attack
Into the Purple Valley
Foxfire is pretty fun
Big Country is boring but nice
Cruising Lane
Diamond in the Crack

KD
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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by KD » Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:50 pm

Bongo

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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by toad857 » Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:27 pm

Since it's winter, go to wall of denial; south facing.

climb bongo, stric 9, funhouse

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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by tpowell » Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:01 am

Just did arachnid and curving crack today. They're pretty rad.

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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by dustonian » Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:56 am

Oh yeah, forgot about Tower...

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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by mssmith » Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:01 am

Add
Bitchmobile
Environmental impact
Sharp ( not classic but worth it if doing whiteout)
Tony's happy Christmas crack ( while you wait for your friends to finish sport climbing)

And of course the underling !

tania
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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by tania » Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:12 am

Here's another question....it's been a while since we have bought any trad gear. Aside from BD C4s, Metolius TCUs, some WC Tech Friends, and Fixe Aliens, what's the gear to have???
"Life is a balance of holding on and letting go." ~Keith Urban

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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by crazyhair » Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:24 am

Totem cams are arguably the most useful cams (besides camalots) ever. Get them- you will love them. Ball nuts also seem pretty legit.

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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by caribe » Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:03 pm

crazyhair wrote:Totem cams are arguably the most useful cams (besides camalots) ever. Get them- you will love them. Ball nuts also seem pretty legit.
+1 about the ballnutz.

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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by mssmith » Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:32 pm

cams are cams. Before maxing out your credit card consider going onto mountain project and picking up some used gear. Almost everything on my rack was slightly used when I bought it. Doesn't take an engineering to determine whether it's still safe.

Benefit of this strategy is you can try different stuff without worrying about depreciation. tcu's aliens and c4's have a pretty set resale price so if you buy something and don't like it just resell for a couple bucks less.

of course no one ever want's to use my gear

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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by TradMike » Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:52 pm

Cruise Control is one of my favorite 5.9+ routes. Not sure why it doesn't get a lot of traffic.

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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by clif » Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:51 pm

oberon looked pretty good in those pictures, and doppler effect should make the cut too.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Top 10 Classic Trad Lines 5.10a and Under

Post by dustonian » Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:49 pm

Don't forget Andromeda Strain & Roadside Attraction padum-ching

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