Re-slinging Cams

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
tania
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Re-slinging Cams

Post by tania » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:49 pm

1" webbing tied with a water knot VS. 6 or 7 mm cord tied with triple fisherman's knot???

Please don't tell me to send it back to the manufacturer to re-sling because that's not an option right now!!
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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by toad857 » Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:23 pm

scotch tape works best

LK Day
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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by LK Day » Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:31 pm

Before sewn slings we used 1" webbing and a water knot. Leave plenty of tail and tighten the knot with full body weight bouncing. That's still probably your strongest option until you can get them re-sewn.

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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by terrizzi » Tue Dec 18, 2012 10:26 pm

The webbing option will allow for a little stretch where the cord wont. Id go for the webbing

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cliftongifford
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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by cliftongifford » Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:04 am

It doesn't make much difference... go with what you have the most of, or is the cheapest.

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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by toad857 » Wed Dec 19, 2012 4:36 pm

terrizzi wrote:The webbing option will allow for a little stretch where the cord wont. Id go for the webbing
Is cordalette static? If it is, then I'd go with the webbing 100%.

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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by ynp1 » Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:36 pm

Yes more static then webbing. Webbing is pretty dynamic.

Have you ever tightened or walked a slackline?
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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by cliftongifford » Thu Dec 20, 2012 6:44 am

When you're talking about only a few inches of material, stretch doesn't come into play. The reduction of force during a fall is attributed to a dynamic rope and a good belayer, not what type of material you sling your cams with. Many cam companies use spectra/dyneema on their cams, that's about as static as it gets.

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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by terrizzi » Thu Dec 20, 2012 9:03 am

Here is a cool article from BD thats discussing re-slinging your gear.
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en ... s-and-c3s/
The thought on surface area when loaded is particularly interesting. Ive herd chatter from techs from companies evaluating some serious downfalls from spectra/dyneema slings when drop tower tests are preformed. Mainly that while spectra/dyneema have a higher static strength when compared to tubular webbing its melting point is much lower, and when girth hitched or slung incorrectly (doubled alpine draws) the friction applied from just a couple falls can cause melting and failure of the spectra/dyneema. Apparently that is why the DMM Dragons have that nifty tail piece.

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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by toad857 » Thu Dec 20, 2012 12:03 pm

cliftongifford wrote:When you're talking about only a few inches of material, stretch doesn't come into play. The reduction of force during a fall is attributed to a dynamic rope and a good belayer, not what type of material you sling your cams with.
It's not about everyday use--it's about those rare occasions that we like to think we "control" for.

Imagine a factor 2 fall directly on a poorly equalized anchor--a tiny bit of stretch may be the difference between the whole thing blowing or holding. Even with a couple of inches, the amount of shock load can be much lower with a little stretch.

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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by clif » Thu Dec 20, 2012 12:13 pm

good ole John Long. i hear it everytime i make an anchor, about the first line of his 'How To" on anchors.

"First, get ONE bomber piece"
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by graniteclimber » Thu Dec 20, 2012 1:15 pm

LOL. The dynamic properties of a 4" nylon sling. You guys slay me.

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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by jay2718 » Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:04 am

Use either 5.5mm Tech-cord (5k test N. E. Ropes), tied off with a double or triple fisherman's knot, or 9/16'' "super tape", also tied off with a double fisherman's knot. Tighten under body weight, and check the knots when you rack up. 1'' tubular webbing is sub-optimal because the increased amount of material results in a constriction in the eye of the piece that compromises its strength. However, I and many others used the 1'' system back in the day. Regular 6 mm Perlon is too weak.

Also see: http://www.mountaineeringlife.com/wp-co ... ngths1.pdf

PS: I don't think there is a safety issue with 1'' tubular, it can just be a pain to clip and manage on the sharp end. The water knots are large and they can make your rack bulky.

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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by caribe » Wed Jan 02, 2013 2:51 pm

Why not 7 mm stainless oval screw links: http://www.columbussupply.com/products/?productid=1468
and
regular 12" runners : http://www.trango.com/slings_webbing/Ul ... nd_Runners
----
The links have a min breakage load of 24.5 kN. BD C4 are rated to 8-14 kN
I guess one problem is weight.
BD C4 #2 = 5.5 oz
7 mm stainless oval screw link = 2.2 oz
sling = 0.5 oz
-----------
total = 8.2 oz. this Cam 're-sling' is a 50% increase in weight. Compare that to the nominal increase in weight for a regular re-sling job: ~10% increase in weight.
-----------
Perhaps it depends on how many you have to re-sling and what your time frame is.
* The weight of sprayed-on loctite not included.
Anybody have a problem with any of this; does it sound sketchy?

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Re: Re-slinging Cams

Post by caribe » Wed Jan 23, 2013 5:03 pm


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