Notice to Tradies

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
dustonian
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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by dustonian » Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:39 pm

Anyone know what needs work at Fortress? I heard that a good number of anchors have been replaced there already.

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dfspau2
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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by dfspau2 » Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:44 pm

I don't know if they have already been replaced but the last time we were up on Scratch Your Face they were kind of bad, those are the ones that made me originally think of Fortress... If there is another crag that needs more attention I would be down to put in some time anywhere...
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dustonian
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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by dustonian » Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:47 pm

Purple Valley, Indian Creek, Phantasia, and Lady Slipper are all good choices as well.

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dfspau2
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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by dfspau2 » Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:58 pm

It would be cool to put some anchors on TNT... that thing is sweet, and I remember the tat on the boulder being really bad...
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dustonian
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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by dustonian » Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:01 pm

For sure. Also I can't remember but I imagine Muscle Beach could use some love. As could Vector Trouble. And Inhibitor? One or both of those has a shitty tree anchor for such a popular route.

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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by Cromper » Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:58 pm

dustonian wrote:For sure. Also I can't remember but I imagine Muscle Beach could use some love. As could Vector Trouble. And Inhibitor? One or both of those has a shitty tree anchor for such a popular route.
Muscle beach definitely needs love, I'll be out there friday so I'll replace muscle schoals. Vector trouble needs it but inhibitor looked alright last i was on it (last fall).

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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by Bruisebrother » Sun Jun 23, 2013 4:20 pm

Update: Dip Wall---- The death rigged rap anchor on 'Theodor Seuss Geisel' has been replaced, the dead tree/rhodo anchor on 'God Save the Queen' is now on the wall at the back of the ledge at the top out, the rap tree anchor now hanging off the ledge on the 'Lorax Tree' will be replaced. For now shuffle right past the top of 'Star-Bellied Sneeches' to a rap tree. The Dome--- The dead rhodo/rope knot in crack, belay/rap anchor, 2 to 3 pitch of Private Duty Nurses has been replaced. Climb Safe.

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Jeff
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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by Jeff » Sun Jun 23, 2013 4:47 pm

Nice work Mikes, appreciated!

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heath
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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by heath » Tue Jun 25, 2013 11:34 am

Pebbly Poo could use some new gear up top. The anchors on it now set your rope up to be eaten by the crack.
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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by kman154 » Sun Jul 21, 2013 10:47 am

Me too!!!

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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by Bruisebrother » Sun Jul 21, 2013 4:37 pm

If you are up at Dunkin Rock and top out on 'What's Left of the Beeneling' (nothing), be aware that there will be at least one Copperhead to greet you! Seen yesterday under the right side of the block sitting at the top of the crack. Climb Safe.

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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by GaryO » Fri Aug 23, 2013 12:29 pm

Thanks for all your work, guys! This is something I'd love to learn how to do and take part in should you need some help and be willing to teach some time.

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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by Curbe » Tue Sep 17, 2013 8:55 pm

I have some hardware I'd be happy to donate, and am more than willing to donate some time. I've never placed a bolt above ground but it would be good to learn.

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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by dhupp » Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:36 pm

dfspau2 wrote:Once I get back in Aug., I would like to spend the day replacing some stuff at Fortress... If anyone is interested we can plan something...
Was just at fortress wall. Wanted to mention that the anchors on bombs bursting are poorly equalized. One ring is a few inches higher than the other, meaning you end up rapping off one ring only and the other would be shock loaded in the case of a break. Another chain link or two would likely solve this, but I'm in no way an expert. Far as I know this could've been unequalized intentionally, can't PM yet or I'd have just sent a message and unfortunately I didn't bring a camera on the climb...

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Re: Notice to Tradies

Post by caribe » Wed Aug 13, 2014 1:36 am

If you are cleaning the route, the rope pulls the system over to the right, equalizing it. The anchors are not dangerous currently for rapping or lowering, certainly no danger of 'shock load.'

Sandstone deposits in layers, offsetting the anchors with a long and short chain is a good idea in that particular stone to achieve redundancy. If you put both anchors in the same stratum, stress fracture in one anchor could propagate to the other.

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