Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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davidbr
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Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by davidbr » Sun Sep 29, 2013 9:16 am

Does anyone know the name + FA info for the route left of Minas Tirith and right of Amazing Journey? It goes up a low-angled finger crack in a dihedral, then steps right and goes up a steep hand-crack in another dihedral.

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Re: Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by Bruisebrother » Thu Oct 03, 2013 5:11 pm

The route, 'It's Been Done' had been climbed before I first saw it about 1988 with Martin Hackworth. Don't remember him saying who did it first. We cleaned it back up this spring and replaced the manky fixed gear. Did you top out? BB.

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Re: Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by guyinjeans » Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:31 am

Climbed this route in april real fun whats the name and grade

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Re: Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by dustonian » Fri Oct 04, 2013 10:12 am

Is this your new username Kipp??

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Re: Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by guyinjeans » Fri Oct 04, 2013 10:57 am

No and for the record the route to the left that climbs through the hole is not 5.9

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Re: Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by davidbr » Fri Oct 04, 2013 1:02 pm

Bruisebrother wrote:The route, 'It's Been Done' had been climbed before I first saw it about 1988 with Martin Hackworth. Don't remember him saying who did it first. We cleaned it back up this spring and replaced the manky fixed gear. Did you top out? BB.
We climbed to the slung tree at the top of the upper dihedral. It was clear that some effort had been put in cleaning that line, so thanks much for that. It's a brilliant route, and the bottom half to the first anchors would be a nice lead for a newer leader.

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Re: Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by ynot » Sat Oct 05, 2013 3:04 pm

guyinjeans wrote:No and for the record the route to the left that climbs through the hole is not 5.9
I agree. I tried it ten years ago and guessed some things must have been broken off.
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Re: Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by Bruisebrother » Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:51 am

First crack 5.6 thinking top section 5.7/8? The first 9 did lose an almost critical finger foot hold. I've seen it climbed. A definite sequence needed now, A bit harder than 9 now! Has anyone done the left 5.9 past the ledge to the top? Climb Safe.

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Re: Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by davidbr » Mon Oct 07, 2013 12:37 pm

Bruisebrother wrote:First crack 5.6 thinking top section 5.7/8? The first 9 did lose an almost critical finger foot hold. I've seen it climbed. A definite sequence needed now, A bit harder than 9 now! Has anyone done the left 5.9 past the ledge to the top? Climb Safe.
The top section is pretty burly. I'd say 5.8 anyway.

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Re: Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by Bruisebrother » Mon Oct 07, 2013 2:51 pm

I'd go with 5.8 . Davi, did you do 'Going South' to the ledge? Looking up it appears it may go to the top. What's your thinking on it? Climb Safe, BB.

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Re: Route between Amazing Journey and Minas Tirith

Post by davidbr » Mon Oct 07, 2013 6:47 pm

No, didn't try Going South. Didn't really even look at it.

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