Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

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Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby Steve_BSU » Thu Oct 23, 2014 9:13 am

I just set a goal for myself to break into 5.11 trad during this coming summer. I need to work more mid to upper 5.10 trad to do as well as some winter training. Any advice on some of the nicer lines of this grade in the gorge? Any nice 11a lines I should project?

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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby Ascentionist » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:27 pm

According to the advanced search in the online guide there are 21 routes that fit your criteria.
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby Ascentionist » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:30 pm

No, seriously, and not being a jerk: what kind of climbing are you looking for? Do you want to be well rounded or pander to your own strengths? I myself liked to pad my ticked list by climbing only fingercracks and slab climbs because those were my strength. That made it look like I was a wicked hard climber when in fact I couldn't get up a 5.6 offwidth or a 5.9 jug haul to save my life.
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby Cromper » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:30 pm

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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby monty4355 » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:38 pm

Doppler Effect
No Bones About It
Tradisfacton
Cruising Lane
Jims Dihedral
Rock Wars
Where Lizards Dare


Tons of great trad tens in the Red!!!
All those have good gear also.
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby rjackson » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:45 pm

I think most of the 10s in the gorge are pretty good (and hard), so I'd just climb every one you run into, whether you send it or not. There aren't that many 11s and they are in a variety of styles, so unless you have one in particular to train for I think you're better off trying to become well-rounded. I'd also consider becoming a master of your sphincter, because once you start climbing hard trad around here you may just want to poop your pants . . . :-)
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby dustonian » Thu Oct 23, 2014 1:47 pm

Day Tripping
Jungle Beat
The Quest
Haas Memorial Route
Woolly Worm Festival (L side Historic Wall)
Hidden Treasure
B3
Fear & Loathing in Nada
Vector Trouble
Inhibitor
Oberon
Strongyloides
Windy Corner
Renegade
Hourglass Crack
Flashback
Feeding Frenzy
Swole Up
Behind the Green Curtain
Dayglo a Go Go
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby ynp1 » Thu Oct 23, 2014 9:03 pm

Afterburner is an easy 11.
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby dustonian » Thu Oct 23, 2014 9:12 pm

Thunder Chicken, Jim's Dihedral, Headstone Surfer, Up Swift Creek, Beeneling/WLOTB, Barbarian, Don't Panic it's Organic, and Born Again come to mind as well
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby rjackson » Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:10 pm

So many good 5.10 trad lines in the gorge . . .
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby Steve_BSU » Fri Oct 24, 2014 2:15 pm

Thanks for the reply guys! I def. love me some fingers and have been looking at the 10b-d range for routes. Thought I would post up on the ole forum to get more ideas of routes. I feel strong on fingers and hands. OW is something im trying to work on. I struggle on it a bit. lol. Hope to see you guys around in the gorge!
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby krampus » Fri Oct 24, 2014 3:00 pm

No mention fo Return of Geoff Beene!!! WTF? one of the best finger lock routs at the red.
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby dustonian » Fri Oct 24, 2014 9:04 pm

Histoplasmosis and Drag City! 2nd pitches on both are totally succulent and mid-10... :D

The cracks at Beer Trailer are really good too, even tho no one really does them
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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby Ascentionist » Mon Oct 27, 2014 12:47 pm

krampus wrote:No mention fo Return of Geoff Beene!!! WTF? one of the best finger lock routs at the red.


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Re: Mid to upper 5.10 trad lines

Postby LK Day » Tue Oct 28, 2014 5:00 am

This thread warms my cold, cold heart.
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