Crack Training

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?

Crack Training

Postby absolutsugarsmurf » Wed Apr 06, 2016 9:17 am

I just spent a few days in Indian Creek which was just enough time to realize how bad I am at sustained wide-fingers and thin-hands climbing. One or two moves of ratchets/stacks, no problem, but 120 feet of 5.10- green Camalots? No way!

What routes in the Red are the most splitter finger/off-finger/off-hands/thin hands for training these techniques? Let's make a list for future generations! Since technique is body size dependent, the routes should probably be listed by crack size. So, what are your favorite cracks for training locks/ratchets/finger-stacks/thin-hands?

Blue Camalot (0.3):
Gray Camalot( 0.4):
Purple Camalot (0.5):
Green Camalot (0.75):
Posts: 96
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 9:03 pm
Location: Louisville,Ky

Re: Crack Training

Postby monty4355 » Wed Apr 06, 2016 10:55 am

Up swift creek without a paddle.

Although supposedly those with small hands can handjam it.

I hate this size crack. Probably because I suck at it.
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 7:24 pm

Re: Crack Training

Postby nemanji » Wed Apr 06, 2016 12:19 pm

Big Money at Pebble Beach could be considered Up Swift Creek's sister climb. Same deal, just a little less sustained and better feet. Thin hands fo days. Or like 60 ft
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:58 pm

Re: Crack Training

Postby whoneedsfeet » Wed Apr 06, 2016 5:38 pm

Start with the lower end drugs. Ie Molly and dmt, slowly work your way up to the local favorite of meth or oxy pills. After a stint or two in rehab or an OD you'll be more than ready to enter the world of tweaking. On the plus side you will prob lose a lot of weight and will prob climb stinger.
Skipping cruxes is a way of life.
Posts: 346
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:40 pm
Location: Oh god! Did I really move to Miguel's?

Return to Trad

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests