Hey SCIN, check this thing!

Post by **alien2** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 11:51 am

How's the crack past the roof? Looks like it gets thin. Reminds me of the New River - Endless Wall.

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 11:55 am

Holeee shit man! Is that NC?

Post by **krazykid** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 12:29 pm

totally sick!! where is that?

Website · Post by **lordjim_2001** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 12:48 pm

<unnecessary post>
I've seen this picture before. I just can't remember where.......
</unnecessary post>

Post by **Texas Pete** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 1:07 pm

FFA of old Thomas Kelly aid route in smokies
Contributed by Sean on Thursday January 20 @ 06:25PM
from the dept.

Submission by Brandon Waddy

Last spring I sent this amazing crack in the smokies. My friend Kelly Brown asked Harrison Shull about it and Harrison found out that it was an old Thomas Kelly aid line from the 80's. It was filthy with loose flakes in the crack, which made it obvious that no one had ever tried to free climb it. Picture a 60 ft. granite-like boulder with a splitter layback dihedral going up to a perfectly flat and blank horizontal roof, which lies half way up the boulder. The crack traverses to the right for 10 ft. and then follows a "perfect hands" sized splitter out the roof.(about 10 ft.). It then pulls the lip and becomes a dead vertical finger crack for the remaining 15 ft. to the top of the boulder. I named it "Tennessee Tai Chi", and it is probably somewhere between 12a and 12c. I am positive that this is one of the best cracks in the region, period. I am writing this because it is located in an area where there is almost no other climbing( maybe a little bouldering there), and I am afraid that no one will ever get on it again, and this would be a terrible shame, because it is sooo good. For a good picture and directions go to the southeastern climbers coalition website: www.seclimbers.org , then click on:message board, then click on : carolinas, then click on :house rock. I've got another picture where you can see the entire line, and i'll post it with the other if i can find it, but the one that's there should give you a good idea. Also, since it's only 20 minutes from the car it is easy to go and look at if you feel yourself feeling skeptical. Just go and look at the picture.

Post by **Buster** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 1:43 pm

hahahaha! thanks for the beta texas pete!
someone sent me the shot and wouldn't tell me where it was.
i am coming north tonight and will passing through this part of TN sunday with plenty of daylight left on my way back to asheville. i wanna check out the other boulders mentioned in this guys post as much as the route. i'll let you all know what i find.

Post by **John E** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 8:45 pm

That looks awesome. I can only dream of climbing something like that.

Post by **Texas Pete** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:00 am

Here's another teaser for you SCIN. I can't find any pictures of it though. From 2002 Gripped article.

Monument Sees Second Ascent.
The most notable achievement of the Ontario climbing season is the second free ascent of The Monument. The awesome 35 foot splitter roof crack was first free climbed, on sight but with the gear preplaced, by Peter Croft in 1987. Finally, this fall Andrew Boyd of Victoria BC sent the route after several days of work. Andrew confirmed the grade at 5.12d and explained that it was difficult to clean the route, so placing the gear on redpoint burns was not a reasonable option. Andrew removed each piece and replaced it before climbing past them. While the route would probably have seen more ascents if it was in Western Canada, it does remain one of the East’s hardest crack lines.

Post by **andy_lemon** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 4:08 am

Hey, I've got one for you...

Thurmonuclear's Crack!!!

And none of you bitches have sent it...

The only person who climbed it, Jim Thurmond (hence the play on words with the route name), has done it twice placing all the gear. Might I mention he rated it 13a which is harder than the two routes mentioned above. Once in '82 and then again in '92 I believe. He trained for 3 months to nail this flaired roof crack on oak boards elevated on saw horses.

Several have tried to repeat the route... most of you know them

Tim Toula, Adam Groskowski, Eric Ulner, Ray Ellington, Odub, et al. Actually, I think Odub sent the thing, but didn't tell anybody because he preplaced a piece of gear. Woops, was I thinking out loud?

Back to the rage... bring it bitches! You can't do it!

For those of you that are n00bs; this route is in Good Ole Kentuck!!!

Website · Post by **lordjim_2001** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 11:25 am

I know that Odub posted here that he sent it with a single piece of preplaced gear. If I remember correctly that is why he isn't claiming his ascent.

Ray, didn't you say that you are training for this thing?

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 12:26 pm

I keep saying I want to go get on it again but just never do. I've seen The Monument. Man, that thing is gorgeous. Croft onsites it. That guy is a bad ass.

Post by **andy_lemon** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 2:38 pm

lordjim_2001 wrote:I know that Odub posted here that he sent it with a single piece of preplaced gear. If I remember correctly that is why he isn't claiming his ascent.

n00b, quit skimming my posts!

andy_lemon wrote:I think Odub sent the thing, but didn't tell anybody because he preplaced a piece of gear.

Post by **Texas Pete** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 6:33 pm

OK. Lets try this again.

I found it!

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_t ... ic_id=1391

I don't understand?? Why does it come up so small?

Post by **Hoppinbig** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 7:31 pm

Hey Texas Pete - that pic is actually of the Monument at White Bluff - a crag 3 hours north of toronto on Georgian bay. The FA was done by Peter Croft I believe its a 12+.

Here's a bigger version of the thumbnail

the link is http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php? ... toID=17379