"Closed Project" crack???

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Post Reply
Horatio Felacio
highly skilled professional
Posts: 3378
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: under the sea

Post by Horatio Felacio » Mon Sep 19, 2005 12:59 pm

i don't think anyone except steve petro and his belayer know how he climbed that crack. i really wouldn't call a send placing all the gear the true f.f.a., as opposed to sending placing all, but one piece (because a back-breaking tree used to be there).

why the hell is anyone talking about an f.a. anyway? the thread is about claiming a crack as a closed project?
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast

RRO
Fluffy
Posts: 1949
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 12:18 am
Location: woods

Post by RRO » Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:32 pm

Saying any route is a "closed" route due to it not being sent is BS anyway, "there are no rules in climbing". Now dont get all agro just yet. Its the respect not the "rule" that you give the person if you know that someone has done the work to equip/clean/find/train or whatever to do the route that you not get on it. Trad is a little different than sport, a crack is a crack and open to all. But like before, its respect that you not hop on it till the person working it has sent it or an abnormal amount of time has passed , the person is not working the route or is just in plain over their head. The rock is there you do as you wish but what goes around comes around, snake a route and you will prob get snaked back.
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com

If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress

haas
Choss Hunter
Posts: 694
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 1:06 pm
Location: Boulder, CO

Post by haas » Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:50 pm

RRO wrote:Saying any route is a "closed" route due to it not being sent is BS anyway, "there are no rules in climbing".
Don't you have a closed project at Chica Bonita Wall? Hypocrite :wink:

RRO
Fluffy
Posts: 1949
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 12:18 am
Location: woods

Post by RRO » Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:54 pm

Anyone can take snipets from a post and create their own illusion :)

To answer your question. Yes, a sport route that still needs more cleaning. The trad that is out there is open game. Some I want to send first but none that would keep me up at night if someone else did them. Go back to soloing apporach pitches and call me later. I think the thin air is messing with you.
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com

If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress

haas
Choss Hunter
Posts: 694
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 1:06 pm
Location: Boulder, CO

Post by haas » Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:57 pm

RRO wrote:Anyone can take snipets from a post and create their own illusion :)
:lol:

User avatar
SCIN
BANNED
Posts: 4981
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 9:19 am
Location: Lexington, KY

Post by SCIN » Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:07 pm

It's all about courtesy really. Courtesy and common sense on both sides. I listed the line as a closed project out of respect for Blake but that doesn't mean there is a crag policeman standing there not letting people try it. Personally, I've always given people the "go ahead" on all of my hard crack projects because it makes it that much better when you're the one who finally sends it. You can spray about all the dudes who tried it and couldn't get it. 8)
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio

rockman
Sucks
Posts: 407
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 12:00 am

Post by rockman » Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:44 pm

SCIN wrote:I listed the line as a closed project out of respect ...
Thanks SCIN.

J-Rock
Indiana Jared
Posts: 2936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 5:30 pm
Location: Carolinas

Post by J-Rock » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:24 pm

Good luck Rockman, that crack is beautiful!
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder

User avatar
One-Fall
Good Egg
Posts: 843
Joined: Mon May 12, 2003 8:27 pm
Location: Louisville

Post by One-Fall » Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:10 pm

Blake, I'll belay you on it if you teach me how to climb it. I have done one 5.8 crack. Is that enough experience???


By the way, the pics of you on that route are sweet.
Can't we all just get along?

Ultra
Poser
Poser
Posts: 275
Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 2:42 pm

Post by Ultra » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:10 pm

Blake.....it figures
Do you like apples? Well, how do you like [b]THEM APPLES[/b]

the lurkist
In Crust We Trust
Posts: 2244
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 10:07 am

Post by the lurkist » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:23 pm

You know, come to think of it, I never gave Ho the go ahead to get on Snot Rocket. YOU SNAKED MY PROJECT, YOU TURD! (I was planning on doing that thing).
I don't think 15 years is an unreasonable time allotment to ask folks to stay away from a project. Blake, you have plenty of time.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie

RRO
Fluffy
Posts: 1949
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 12:18 am
Location: woods

Post by RRO » Mon Sep 19, 2005 10:23 pm

I hope my post didnt come across wrong. Its public knowledge that Blake is working that line and IMO he deserves the FA on it and will get it soon Im sure. It would take a real dick to do the route without talking to him.
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com

If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress

Ultra
Poser
Poser
Posts: 275
Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 2:42 pm

Post by Ultra » Mon Sep 19, 2005 10:37 pm

blake, consider yourself "talked to" :mrgreen:
Do you like apples? Well, how do you like [b]THEM APPLES[/b]

Astroman
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:06 pm
Location: Lexington, KY

Post by Astroman » Wed Sep 21, 2005 1:45 pm

RRO wrote:It would take a real dick to do the route without talking to him.
Why??

I'm not working on the route and have no plans to... But why isn't the pitch FAIR GAME?? Evidently even Blake considers it so.

Matt never asked or expected Armegeddon to be closed to the rest of the climbing public while he worked on it. Hugh just joked about the need to grant permission to climb a pitch like that... its ridiculous.

Bolted anchors or not, "cleaned" or not, everyone should encourage EVERYONE to get on that beauty... without a being labeled a "real dick" for doing so...

J-Rock
Indiana Jared
Posts: 2936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 5:30 pm
Location: Carolinas

Post by J-Rock » Wed Sep 21, 2005 1:50 pm

I think it is an issue of "respect". If somebody else wanted to do the route then they could have taken the time to find it, clean it, and equip it. Blake took on this challenge and he should be allowed to complete it within a given time period before opening it up to the public. In some cases loose rocks might need to be removed, bolts might need to be added, anchors installed, etc. The real question is: How much time should be allowed for a project route before it is opened to the public?
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder

Post Reply