"Closed Project" crack???

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Post Reply
Danny
Ghost Climber
Posts: 1088
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 3:20 pm
Location: Bloomington
Contact:

Post by Danny » Wed Sep 21, 2005 2:01 pm

How about an onsight attempt and two redpoint attempts.

Wes
Believer
Posts: 5180
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 11:46 am
Location: Torrent!
Contact:

Post by Wes » Wed Sep 21, 2005 2:10 pm

Danny wrote:How about an onsight attempt and two redpoint attempts.
That is per day, right? :wink:
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Post by pigsteak » Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:18 pm

17 tie ins on 50 degree days with 10 percent humidity. anything less would be a disgrace.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

RRO
Fluffy
Posts: 1949
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 12:18 am
Location: woods

Post by RRO » Wed Sep 21, 2005 9:08 pm

Astro,
If someone has talked to Blake and he says go for it then by all means hop on the what looks to be an amazing line. I know Hugh was joking. I cant speak for Matt but I would bet money that if someone came up and sent it without talking with him he would have some negative feelings about the situation. Your right, the pitch is "fair game" its a crack. I said that in my post as well. There's not a hallway monitor up there watching the cracks. Cracks are pretty much open game and I understand what cleaning a route takes and agree that putting an anchor on a crack doesnt make it yours. Its all about respecting the climbers in the community, esp ones working as hard as Blake does. So yeah make a big sign and put on the drive out there and put a flashing neon sign at the base to get EVERYONE on it. I still think that if people did get on it without talking to Blake knowing that he was working it and was close to sending that its just kinda shady. IMO(and maybe this is just being selfish and a dick) it would make me happier to see Blake send the route and watch the hard work pay off for him than it would for my name to be in the guidebook as the FA. Im not the best with words so hopefully my posts portrays whats in my head.
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com

If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress

the lurkist
In Crust We Trust
Posts: 2244
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 10:07 am

Post by the lurkist » Wed Sep 21, 2005 11:02 pm

Matt said it. For someone who works as hard as Blake, folks want to leave him with his route. Doesn't mean it is his, it just means folks want to see him do it. If he gives up on it, he will call time on himself.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie

J-Rock
Indiana Jared
Posts: 2936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 5:30 pm
Location: Carolinas

Post by J-Rock » Thu Sep 22, 2005 8:37 am

Technically this crack is considered a mixed route since it has a bolt protected crux though. So, does that fall under the same category as trad routes for the "open game" status? Not trying to start an argument here, just curious.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder

Astroman
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:06 pm
Location: Lexington, KY

Post by Astroman » Thu Sep 22, 2005 11:20 am

Don't get me wrong, I think Blake (for lack of a better word) deserves the FFA. He's put the time in and sounds close to a clean send. I just think it was a mistake to list the route as a closed project and also to discourage friendly competition in the hunt for an FFA of a "last great project" pitch.

And the bolt low on the route doesn't protect the crux, not even close... I know because I tried it back in the Spring... Holy s**t it was hard...

User avatar
SCIN
BANNED
Posts: 4981
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 9:19 am
Location: Lexington, KY

Post by SCIN » Thu Sep 22, 2005 11:31 am

Last great project??? Man, you need to hike around a bit more. Tons more sick stuff out there.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio

Astroman
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:06 pm
Location: Lexington, KY

Post by Astroman » Thu Sep 22, 2005 1:43 pm

SCIN wrote:Tons more sick stuff out there.
That look like "All That Glitters?" Ray, somehow I doubt it. ATG is about as stunning as a single pitch route can get. I'm quite certain there is plenty of other "sick stuff" out there that hasn't gone down yet... but there are precious few lines as clean and striking (and difficult) at the Red.

And obviously I meant that ATG was a Last Great Project-TYPE of pitch... OF COURSE it isn't THE Last Great Project... but certainly a high profile (for this community at least) project similar to the Bitch Crack and Armageddon.

512OW
Master of My Own Reality
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 5:43 pm
Location: steadily moving up the points list...
Contact:

Post by 512OW » Fri Oct 28, 2005 2:44 pm

Hmmm....I agree with SCIN....Astro, you need to do some more exploring before you make that statement. I can name 6 routes off the top of my head that look as good and are harder...

And no way its the same status as Nazi Bitch or Armageddon. Those routes were established aid lines for YEARS. Decade plus. John Long was the first to seriously make a go at Nazi Bitch....

I've been hearing about Blakes route for a few years, which I personally think is WAY too long to claim a project. Well, I think a day is too long. BUT, I'd rather wait till he sends it, then do it in a few tries....

For now.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Post by pigsteak » Fri Oct 28, 2005 5:17 pm

A friend saw it a month ago, and said he will be back this Spring to send it, with or without Blake's "approval".....you all have been warned.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

User avatar
SCIN
BANNED
Posts: 4981
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 9:19 am
Location: Lexington, KY

Post by SCIN » Fri Oct 28, 2005 10:20 pm

Man, it really doesn't even matter who climbs the damn thing first. The line will be exactly the same after someone does it than it is right now.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio

allah
Went Down On It
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 12:10 am

Post by allah » Sat Oct 29, 2005 10:02 am

its all just about the spray status

Zspider
bent over, grabbing his ankles
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 11:02 am
Location: Bloomington, IN

Post by Zspider » Sat Oct 29, 2005 12:04 pm

512OW wrote:
I've been hearing about Blakes route for a few years, which I personally think is WAY too long to claim a project. Well, I think a day is too long.
My feelings, too. Ownership should come with a legal deed.

ZSpider

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Post by pigsteak » Sat Oct 29, 2005 11:36 pm

and allah and I should know....(about spray status)

btw, I wasn't trying to be a dick about my buddy planning on sending the crack...just announcing his intentions with plenty of forewarninig, so no one acts like he came in here and "stole" the line..he was like many others on here...saw that striking line, and thought it a shame that some many were waiting in line for a natural line such as that.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

Post Reply