Crack Climging Practice

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
absolutsugarsmurf
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Crack Climging Practice

Post by absolutsugarsmurf » Mon Sep 19, 2005 12:57 pm

I'm looking for the perfect climb to learn crack climbing technique on. I've been climbing trad for about 6 months now, and am finding that my hand and foot jams are really lacking. I have a tendancy to turn what should be a 5.9 or 5.8 crack into hard 11 face moves just to avoid crack climbing. If any one on this site learned to crack climb in the Red, or has a perfect splitter that can really only be climbed with jams, I'd really love to know about it. I've tried Africa, Party Time, Day Dreaming, and a handful of others without much success. So something other than those climbs. Thanks.

meetVA
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Post by meetVA » Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:23 pm

Indian Creek Crag? From pictures, it looks like there is a perfect 5.9 splitter hand crack.
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Post by haas » Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:26 pm

run laps on the first pitch of Roadside Attraction, and try to only handjam and stuff your feet in the crack. It's perfect hands size and the slabby nature of the crack makes it a great learning environment

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Post by RRO » Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:40 pm

Spend a day at Fortress and make the face holds "off route" on all the routes 5.8 and lower. Time and laps will build technique.
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Post by SCIN » Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:08 pm

Crack Attack.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

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Post by Crankmas » Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:09 pm

Vision, Environmental Impact, The Shining, Snake and Surfinw/Grizz per RRO, Brontosaurus,Into the Purple Valley are some moderate hand cracks that allow for both jam and some face holds if it gets dicey- Autumn too.

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Post by Wes » Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:11 pm

Andromada Strain (don't layback any part of it)


And remember the words of Odub:

"there is more the crack climbing then perfect hands"

Ponder this, then make the trek to Muscle beach a couple times a month. Once you can send all those routes, you will have pretty solid crack climbing skilz.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda

vic
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Post by vic » Mon Sep 19, 2005 3:49 pm

Probably one of the most "perfect" crack is located at the Bob Marley crag (on the RRGCC land). As you approach the cliff, hang a right, and then it's about 80 meters before you find a crack that will remind you of Utah.
You can climb the first pitch, (5.8) SPELLING eight, to good anchors, and unlike most climbs listed above, this one will for sure give you HELL because there isn't much ton even consider on the face.
Enjoy that beautiful crack though.
! Enough with all that detestation ALREADY !
Smile & be thankful for what you have.

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Post by Snowpuppy » Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:51 pm

Agreed on Andromeda Strain, Enviornmental Impact, and the first part of Arachnid, and also Africa-just run laps on them. But you have to make yourself use the crack.
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Post by ynot » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:36 pm

Build youself a crack machine.
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vic
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Post by vic » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:41 pm

What would be super cool though...
Have a master crack sending machine (yeah, a real climber) take couple of days to show the rest of us how it's done.
! Enough with all that detestation ALREADY !
Smile & be thankful for what you have.

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Post by J-Rock » Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:31 pm

What about that "Days of Rage" route over at Fortress? That thing looks like it has some nice jams!
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vic
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Post by vic » Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:43 pm

I completely suck at crack climbing... and for this reason can totally cope with the original question / comment. As for me, if you remove ALL face holds (by not having any) then I seem to do a lot better at NOT face climbing the "thing".

Tony's x-mas tree (at bob marley) should give you SOLID pros, solid tech, and no face holds to think about.
! Enough with all that detestation ALREADY !
Smile & be thankful for what you have.

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Post by Don McGlone » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:31 am

Go to the New.
Shedding off one more layer of skin
Keeping one step ahead of the persecutor within

J-Rock
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Post by J-Rock » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:38 am

Or go to Indian Creek, UT.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder

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