Good multi pitch in the Red?

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
zikester
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Good multi pitch in the Red?

Post by zikester » Tue Sep 20, 2005 12:07 am

We all know that the Red is no Seneca or Yosemite in respect to multipitch routes, however I know it has a handful of fairly decent two and even three pitch climbs. Ive been on Bonzo, Diamond in the Crack, and Roadside Attraction, can anybody give me some other multipitch climbs in the area of 5.9 and below that I should check out. Also, is there anything larger than three pitch climbs in the red?

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Post by haas » Tue Sep 20, 2005 12:25 am

Frenchburg Overhangs is the sweetest 5.8 multipitch in the Red (but you can run it in one long pitch if you want to) and well worth the bushwack. For 5.9 try Jungle Beat or Nevermore. Foxfire is a 5.7 3 pitch route that in my opinion sucks, but it's long and quite a few people like it. Try the Proverbial Donkey for some good two pitch spice when you're ready.
Last edited by haas on Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:26 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by jsayler » Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:57 am

i like whiteout, it can be done in one or two pitches
the direct start is pretty cool

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Post by Meadows » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:14 am

Foxfire - it tops out to a BEAUTIFUL view.

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Post by dhoyne » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:17 am

Bedtime for Bonzo, although a bit easier (5.6?), has one of the most magnificent views of the Gorge at the top out. Party Time isn't too far away and is just a bit harder.
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Post by ynot » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:28 am

Good Tang, 3 pitches, all stellar,all the time
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Post by J-Rock » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:29 am

Frenchburg Overhangs is interesting too and it seems like the next logical step in your progression along with Arachnid, Whiteout, Dicey at Best, Minas Tirith, etc.
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Post by ynp1 » Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:44 am

No Return (5.9) at sky bridge is really good. it has two really cool ledges to chill and drink some beer on.
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Post by Ultra » Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:56 am

I think the best multi-pitch route in the Red has to be "Nevermore" at Raven Rock. I believe you can do it in five pitches mostly done for rope drag. We did it in two pitches. We took five people up it on a 100 meter rope.We used buterfly knots. Shrader is the one who led. It was his first trad climb/lead. I explained to him how to place gear on the way to the crag. He led it all turning the five pitch into a two pitch. During the whole route which goes for about 200-225 feet. He placed only five pieces of gear. Running out as much as 60 feet between pieces. It was a spectacular day, good friends. and a great day climbing.
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Post by Day » Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:27 pm

There are a bunch of good routes mentioned here. I like them all. Dicey at Best is really nice. Do go all the way to the top. It's worth it. Jungle Beat is my favorite, but the single 5.9+ move might actually be more like 5.9+++. Nevermore is spectacular with a scarey finish. The big cams didn't exist when I did it, but I remember the last pitch as really run out. The last pitch of Good Tang is dynamite. Vertical, maybe overhanging offwidth to a fierce squeeze chimney at only 5.7, great top out, easy descent down a ridgeline to the East?

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Post by Danny » Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:39 pm

Good Tang now has a set of bolt anchors before you do the chimney from which you can rap to the ground with one rope. You can rap from the top to these anchors from a tree. This is by far my new favorite 5.7. Lower and middle small walls are both great places for good long routes. You can search the online guide by route length also. For example, search for length 120-500 feet and in the free text section type "order by length desc" to get the longest routes listed first.

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Post by ynot » Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:21 pm

Larry, The big block under the roof of the second pitch of Dicey at best is so loose it's scary as hell. I knew if I came off,the cam behind it was going to push it, and me and the 4 kids below would all have been dead. It's as big as a large garden tractor. No thanks I'll stick to trying to send the first pitch.
I've been using big bros on some of your routes. What did you guys use? I saw "tubes" mentioned somewhere. Or did you just run it out? I have also seen odd looking I beam things used for pro. Maybe these were all lengths? There was one as a fixed anchor in the now closed Cindy Lou's Left Tube.
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Post by Day » Tue Sep 20, 2005 7:17 pm

ynot, maybe someone should push that block off. It wasn't loose way back when. It would be a shame for the upper part of the route to remain inaccessible. As for wide crack protection back in the seventies, I had several tube chocks and one beam. Placements were generally crap, all wobbly and insecure.

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Post by Danny » Wed Sep 21, 2005 10:06 am

That big pivoting block is one of the many highlights of the second pitch. To put a solid piece in just pivot the block out then wedge an overcamed cam in there. You would need a bulldozer to remove that block.

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Post by J-Rock » Wed Sep 21, 2005 1:07 pm

After reading through the new guidebook I really want to get on "The Quest"!
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