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Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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ynot
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Post by ynot » Wed Apr 04, 2007 6:05 pm

Like twice as sweet as the R ones?
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

Day
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Post by Day » Wed Apr 04, 2007 6:26 pm

Well...., Just because it's an R doesn't mean you won't die if you fall. It's just not a sure thing.

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ynot
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Post by ynot » Wed Apr 04, 2007 6:47 pm

some of the R's I have done protected just fine with bros or tiny cams. Some were just a bit runout. The x always worries me.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

Day
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Post by Day » Wed Apr 04, 2007 7:29 pm

Yep, Technology changes things. The last pitch of Tower of Power scared me pretty good back in the day. 512OW toproped it recently and said it looks like it would protect well! I'll still call it R until somebody leads it again. Meteor maker was really frightening, maybe not so much anymore?

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Post by kneebar » Thu Apr 05, 2007 5:57 pm

RRO wrote:and some are good but most are choss. we should move to the desert where we would be appreciated more

minas
a couple at mariba top out.
The desert calls you Matt..........2 weeks of creek cracks awiat you if you want a ride............I'm just sayin', leaving on the 17th :twisted:

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Post by Paul3eb » Thu Apr 05, 2007 6:10 pm

all this talk of day routes and scary stuff that hasn't seen many repeats or at least successful repeats.. kinda makes me want to try all the r and x stuff in the gorge after it gets too hot.. say july/august :twisted:

anyone with me? i'll lead the pitches.. just need someone to belay, preferably with medical experience. we can call it the summer of survival (hopefully).. ;)
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins

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Post by RRO » Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:31 pm

im in
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com

If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress

Day
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Post by Day » Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:45 pm

When I first started climbing I loved everything about it except the danger. But I was already hopelessly hooked by the time I saw my first issue of that great British climbing rag Mountain. I got a shock when, flipping through the pages, I came upon the obituaries section. The obits always had maybe one old codger that had died in his 80s or 90s, and, sadly, several young climbers that had gotten the chop at the absolute top of their games, usually in the Himalayas, sometimes in the Alps, and occasionally on some British horror show route like a slate sea cliff or such.

With this in mind I became really cautious about the pro and tended to sew routes up with pieces that I did my best to weld in place. Over time it got to be a real pain in the ass waiting for the second to clean the pitch, so I learned to place good gear that was easily removed. I got pretty good at it, and noticed that I frequently found "poorly protected" pitches to be not so difficult to protect at all. Slowly, like a some sort of pathetic junkie, I got hooked on the sport of turning Xs into Rs, and Rs into PGs. It was a ton of fun. Just glad I never had to pay the full price of admission to this intoxicating game. The culmination of this kind of stuff was a mixed route that Malcolm Daly and I did in RMNP. We called it Dazed and Confused. We had a 330 ft 9mm rope, and Malcolm lead one 300 ft pitch that had maybe one runner, then the last move on the last pitch was really hard, and at least 200 ft above the last piece. Again, it was Malcolm's lead. I never saw anybody with a cooler head than him in that kind of situation.

I never got that much into the soloing thing, however. It just didn't make sense to me. If I had a rope and some pieces I always believed I could keep my ass off the ground.

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Post by Paul3eb » Thu Apr 05, 2007 10:46 pm

Day wrote:I never got that much into the soloing thing, however. It just didn't make sense to me. If I had a rope and some pieces I always believed I could keep my ass off the ground.
it's thin line, huh? ;) somehow, i believe the same.. we've all got to be careful about beliefs, though..
rro wrote:im in
only say it if you mean it ;)

are you talking about weekends or weekdays? if you're talking weekdays.. i'll do what i can but don't forget that i am the Corporate Whore ;)
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins

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Post by Yasmeen » Fri Apr 06, 2007 8:20 am

Sure - the precedent was set with Milkin the Chicken. As long as I don't *have* to lead scary, doom-filled pitches, I'm down.
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Post by Wes » Fri Apr 06, 2007 10:55 am

Corporate Whore wrote:kinda makes me want to try all the r and x stuff in the gorge after it gets too hot
Could this be the start of the angry Paul phase? You just need some death metal and some clips of Michael Reardon to get you psyched. But, please don't let the pendulum swing all the from emo to goth, as I don't think you would look good in all black.
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Post by RRO » Fri Apr 06, 2007 12:21 pm

weekdays for me chief, you know that
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com

If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress

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Post by JR » Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:43 am

Hey wes, I saw Micheal Reardon this winter at Crossroads Coffee shop in Joshua Tree. Yes, he was wearing his red soling shirt.

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Post by BigRed » Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:47 am

BEDTIME FOR BONZO was a cool topout for the red.

oh and Chainsaw Massacre was good too. :wink:
Grip it and Rip it!

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ynot
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Post by ynot » Sat Apr 14, 2007 11:29 am

There's a picture of Katie Brown working a finger crack at the Red in the new Mountain gear catalog. Any one know what route it is?
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

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