Qestionable Cam

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Gaar
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Qestionable Cam

Post by Gaar » Tue Mar 27, 2007 10:41 am

Went down to the red a few times this week, and ended up taking a fairly good size whipper (20+) onto my metolious 1 blue cam, that was in a diagonal crack. The cam held but it kinked and warped the cam pretty bad. The lobes still engage, sort of...Here are some pictures; the pencil and the other cam (yellow) are for a point of reference. Still good? Ideas


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"climb, fall, send, go home"

kirker
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Post by kirker » Tue Mar 27, 2007 10:57 am

If your worried about it don't use it. Not worth the anxiety looking at another 20 footer with that peices below you again.

pawilkes
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Post by pawilkes » Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:19 am

its hard to say if its safe or not but it sounds like it must have been a good ride. from my mechanical engineering point of view as long as the cables are all still in tact, they should still be functionally strong. however, there was some form of yielding since they bent so you've probably lost some strength, its hard to say how much though.
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.

batguano
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Post by batguano » Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:57 am

oh the horror!

that thing looks super sketchy, you better give it to me.
weather is occurring.

Wes
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Post by Wes » Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:13 pm

No, don't listen to Batguano. You should give it to me for further testing. I will evaluate it over the next 24 months, and if it passes all tests get it back to you.
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Horatio Felacio
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Post by Horatio Felacio » Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:13 pm

just so you don't get blamed for batguano's death after he tries to use that terrifying cam, you better give it to me. i will place it in a safe where no one may touch it.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast

absolutsugarsmurf
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Post by absolutsugarsmurf » Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:23 pm

i like the picture with the pencil standing perpendicular out of the carpet. and don't lie garr, we all know amy is hanging the routes and you just top rope them. that's allright man, but just be honest with everyone ok?

Gaar
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Post by Gaar » Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:40 pm

I love you matt......Amy is in georgia for 2 weeks getting her WFR....sorry your 4 days late on that one.......
"climb, fall, send, go home"

kneebar
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Post by kneebar » Tue Mar 27, 2007 1:41 pm

Sounds like you "tested it" and it works, I would likely still use it . But I'm not saying you should............. I'm not a engineer. That said, I would be willing to bet that the cable is still way stronger then the cams or axle in a pull test. Just my 2 cents for what it is worth.

Horatio Felacio
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Post by Horatio Felacio » Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:34 pm

your opinion isn't worth much, so stay the hell out of this dicklicker. it's not like you make your own cams or anything. ass.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast

kdelap
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Post by kdelap » Tue Mar 27, 2007 4:47 pm

Use it! Just don't fall on it!
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Sloopy
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Post by Sloopy » Tue Mar 27, 2007 4:59 pm

Gaar! I'm amaized! That must have been some wipper! As far as the cam, I think it looks fine, but I'm no trad master. But with all of your experience, I'm suprised that you are asking the well, less experienced. I would think U should be telling US why we should or should not use the cam. You should have gotten some shots of you taking the wipper. Now THAT would be somethin' to talk about!
"You can't spell 'failure' without u r a." -Dr. C.

You have either have got the spirit or you don't. If you've got the spirit you rock; and if you don't... well, you're a sport climber. -Leonard Coyne

Like This
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Post by Like This » Tue Mar 27, 2007 5:10 pm

Yeh, what kdub said.

And sloop, too. You totally should have gotten some shots of the whipper. :wink:
"When you feel something, don't just yell 'STRIKE!' and then pull out. Leave your probe where it is." -JH

I love you too, Ray!!

KD
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Post by KD » Tue Mar 27, 2007 5:16 pm

the cams fine but the pencil shouldnt be trusted

Sloopy
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Post by Sloopy » Tue Mar 27, 2007 5:35 pm

Well the whipping habit is mighty bad
It's the worst old habit that I ever had
Hey, hey honey take a whip on me

Take a whip on me
Take a whip on me
all you climbers take a whip on me
Hey, hey honey take a whip on me

Well I used my 6 cam and I used my 10 (stopper that is)
But the way I used my 7 cam, that’s a dog gone sin
Hey, hey honey take a whip on me
"You can't spell 'failure' without u r a." -Dr. C.

You have either have got the spirit or you don't. If you've got the spirit you rock; and if you don't... well, you're a sport climber. -Leonard Coyne

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