Newbie Question: Howto

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
RogueIT
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Newbie Question: Howto

Post by RogueIT » Thu Apr 26, 2007 9:09 am

I was wondering if someone could tell me if it is possible for 3 or more people to climb a trad pitch?
It seems to me that the first climber places the clips and the last climber cleans but how does the middle person/people climb the rope safely.
Are you attached by quickdraws?
If so do you use multiple quickdraws so you are never unattached?
thanks,
Rogue

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ReachHigh
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Post by ReachHigh » Thu Apr 26, 2007 9:12 am

use a butterfly knot or an 8 in the middle of the rope. the middle climber unclips and re clips the pieces around the knot as they come to them.
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Post by kdelap » Thu Apr 26, 2007 9:29 am

There are many possible ways to do this. All of which take extensive technical knowledge. I would probably get some formal training. But...

Depending on how many ropes you want to use, you could caterpillar (if the pitch is hard); or belay 2 seconds at the same time while the last back-clips a third rope; or you can climb in the middle of the ropes if the pitch is short enough. If there is no traverse then you could just trail the other lines.
I think that you will find the most complicated part of this will be at the belay stances. Rope management and climber positioning are super important. If the people who are following are less experienced then there are many things that could go wrong.
If you have any further questions about this feel free to PM me.
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Post by KD » Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:27 am

the seconds have to be sure to unclip/reclip the pro correctly or they hose their follower. It's eay to fuck this up. kdlap is right about formal instruction.

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Post by p0bray01 » Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:35 am

I assume you are meaning multi pitch? If so def do it with just you and a partner you trust first....3 people can become a clusterfuck real fast. Def. get some instruction....its worth the money! If its just single pitch...and the anchors are in a decent position....one leads sets an anchor or uses established anchor....clips in and is lowererd...the other two TR......
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Post by Day » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:03 pm

The first climber leads. The second climber follows and unclips the pro from the rope he's following on and clips in the rope he trails. The third cleans. If this is not clear, take a class. Better yet, take a class anyway.

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Post by rhunt » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:48 pm

no offense but if you need to get online and ask these questions then you probably shouldn't try these things without an experience climber. Hire a guide, please.
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Post by RogueIT » Thu Apr 26, 2007 1:03 pm

I am sorry if I gave anyone the impression that I was going out to attempt any of this based on knowledge that I gained on this posting. I am not that stupid, and anyone who feels that reading A THREAD qualifies them to do whatever they were asking advice about, probably deserves whatever happens to them and may they be first in line at the Darwin awards.

Believe me people I am not going to go on a multi-pitch trad climb armed with only the information found in this thread...I mean the name of the thread is "Newbie Question".
I might ask how to split the atom but that doesn't mean that I am going to go out and do it...

Concern is one thing but you do not have to beg me to keep me from doing something stupid.

Now that being said…How do you properly execute a victory whip?
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

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Post by michaelarmand » Thu Apr 26, 2007 1:04 pm

The smoothest in my opinion is with half ropes - the leader can simul belay the two people seconding as they clean gear from each rope. They do need to be staggered and should climb at the same pace...but it can be a cluster...
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Post by Saxman » Thu Apr 26, 2007 1:56 pm

Check out a bunch of rock climbing books from the library. That will help get you started with a knowledge base. Then hire a guide or go out with experienced climbers.
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Post by big_brother » Thu Apr 26, 2007 2:21 pm

Climbing with three people can be made a lot easier if two people are capable of leading. It makes for a very simple system, but slightly more committing.

1) First climber leads pitch, anchors off, unties and drops rope.

2) Second climber leads on pre-placed gear.

3) Third climber top-ropes and cleans pitch.

This is a pretty quick method, plus two people get to lead every pitch. And you only have to use one rope.
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Post by rhunt » Thu Apr 26, 2007 2:34 pm

RogueIT wrote:How do you properly execute a victory whip?
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Ok first check with the rules for the climbing area you'll be VW'ing at, some land owners forbid the practice. Next decide if you are going to do a true old-school VW. The true VW is done without the anchor clipped. Some new-school catz think a VW can to done with the anchor clipped yet with lots of slack out, nope sorry that's just lame. Now most importantly(and pigsteak can back me up on this), a VW is only a VW when done on a route 12a or harder. VW's done on anything less than 12a are just again, lame.

Now get out there, send some shit and enjoy your VW's :D
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Post by gulliver » Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:12 pm

big_brother wrote: 1) First climber leads pitch, anchors off, unties and drops rope.
Make sure first climber didn't have the car keys :)

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Post by anticlmber » Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:19 pm

RogueIT wrote: reading A THREAD qualifies them to do whatever they were asking advice about.


Now that being said…How do you properly execute a victory whip?
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Everything on this form is the gospel. it's perfectly fine to do whatever you read. the folks on here wouldn't lie to you and are very helpful to new climbers. i've only known of 345 people to get hurt after following advice, (or people on here for that matter) from this site. good odds if you ask me. knowledge is for idiots. get out there and learn the hard way.
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Post by B.J. » Fri Apr 27, 2007 1:05 am

big_brother wrote: 1) First climber leads pitch, anchors off, unties and drops rope.
So the first climber is now stranded on top of the pitch. Screw that! The 2-leader method seems fine to me, but use 2 ropes. I don't ever want to be at the top of a pitch without any way to get myself off of it.

The only time I would endorse big_brother's suggestion is if there wasn't enough beer for 3 people...

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