arachnid gear

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Mrs.climbeRPh
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arachnid gear

Post by Mrs.climbeRPh » Wed May 23, 2007 4:20 pm

I noticed in the book that you need a #5 camalot half way out the roof, then protect the horizontals at the end of the roof; but what about the rest of the way up.......it looks kinda wide. Should I bring more wide pieces or can you protect inside with smaller stuff, or do I need to pucker and run?

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Post by Jeff » Wed May 23, 2007 4:28 pm

Depending on your personal pucker factor, move through the wider section after the roof to smaller gear placements.
It's not that far to a good piece and you'll be placing from a good stance.

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Post by Snowpuppy » Wed May 23, 2007 4:36 pm

Don't protect the traverse, put a hex in the corner of the roof then move on. Then climb through the offwidth. #1 and #2 camalot will suffice for the rest of the climb.
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Post by Mrs.climbeRPh » Wed May 23, 2007 4:40 pm

thanks for the beta options.
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Post by anticlmber » Wed May 23, 2007 5:03 pm

a #4 works great midway out the roof. the hex in the corner is great but the rope runs funny after that. a #6 in the offwidth will work, but your second will end up catching it in the crotch before they get to it. (thanks dario)
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Post by ynot » Wed May 23, 2007 5:16 pm

Snowpuppy, if you dont protect under the roof you will smash into the corner if you peel from the lip. I had a piece half way out the roof and still came close to hitting the wall. A #3 bro in the OW as soon as you stand up after the roof move keeps the rope from snagging in a cam underneath.
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Post by Bruisebrother » Wed May 23, 2007 8:48 pm

ynot's been there. Hex in the corner. (used to be fixed) #4 / #5 out near the end of the roof and a #1 1/2 tricam in a horizontal on the face ( To keep the #4/#5 in if you fall before your next piece) then up to easy gear above the body slot. Follow the Puppy's advice, slip on the face or out of the slot and you will hit the face to the left below the roof! It was done in the 80's resulting in cracked ribs! Climb-Safe.

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Post by quicksilver » Wed May 23, 2007 10:33 pm

I am just a chicken shit old fart climber, so I usually place excessive gear.
I fell at the end of the traverse several years back and it was the coolest
trad fall I remember taking. I had a cam where the vertical crack meets the traverse, another cam in the middle, and a third at the end. Each had a two foot runner on the piece. The pieces formed a perfect three point anchor when I fell. It was the closest thing I ever saw to text book. The crazy thing was that I had climbed to that point the week before and was scared to move up. So I down climbed the whole thing - like that made more sense than climbing on. Anyway I returned with a big bro thinking I would place it above the traverse thereby keeping me on top rope as I prefer - I fell while searching for the placement. After that I cruised on up as the chicken shit butterflies were gone. That's the way I would pro it.
Injury sucks and keeps you from doing what you love to do. I think if the one piece blew at the corner it would certainly have the potential for injury.
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Post by ynot » Wed May 23, 2007 11:24 pm

Do all 4 of those 8's while you are at Tower. They're all stellar and you learn different lessons on each one. Nobody does Green Grease but it rocks. It's well worth climbing the Grunge route to get to.
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Post by anticlmber » Wed May 23, 2007 11:25 pm

i think we should just put a bolt,(or three) on that thing. for safety sakes.
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Post by dhoyne » Thu May 24, 2007 8:03 am

Arachnid is a great route. I usually put a C3 #4.5 on the traverse, then a C3 #5 on the transition. The #5 does pop out after you get above it if you don't place something else to direct the rope away from flipping it.
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Post by ReachHigh » Thu May 24, 2007 8:22 am

I wouldn't worry about it you'll find what you need.
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Post by Yasmeen » Thu May 24, 2007 8:31 am

What you need is for Paul to calm you down while you're nervous about committing to the "runout" in the chimney (not really a run-out) by asking you questions such as "What's your favorite food?" or "What's your favorite color?" I'm sure he'll be happy to oblige for the right price.
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Post by Snowpuppy » Thu May 24, 2007 8:32 am

Curving crack is another great one!! Watch out for the ring neck snake after you pull the overhang below the fallen pine tree.
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Post by Mrs.climbeRPh » Thu May 24, 2007 9:58 am

Yikes, just got back to the board and saw the new comments. I thought Snowpuppy meant to place a hex in the outside corner (which sounded difficult), I had no idea he meant in the inside corner, which would slap me against the wall. I had already made up my mind to protect the roof. Also, an inside corner piece would make the rope drag unless slung long, I would think.

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