The Trad Climbers Inequality

Post by **absolutsugarsmurf** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:12 am

I just noticed that my ascents of trad lines that are 5.8 or below don't give me any points on my online spray list. So my onsite of Arachnid received 0 points, while my onsite of To Defy the Laws of Tradition received 20 points. I climbed TDLT my first year in the Red, and cruised it. 4 years of climbing before I made it on Arachnid and it was a knee-knocker, and still can be 2 years later. I guess this means I'm retiring my rack. I have to get more points.....

And what about 5.8+ routes? Or routes that were put up by Larry Day? Or Good Times? We traddies get no respect here.

Post by **Saxman** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:14 am

Read 6 pages of argument here:
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?t=7807

Post by **p0bray01** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:41 am

YEAH!!! Down with Sportos!!!! wait....i still climb sport too...DOH!

I personally don't care about point system on a website...but your comment is quite interesting...as a matter of fact it has made me think of all the hardwork I have put into becoming a traddie and leaving the numbers game FARRRR behind it seems.

It is interesting how TDLT can seem quite tame compared to some of the lower grade trad climbs that have pucker factor!

Oh well....all for the love of climbing.

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:49 am

most sporties can walk 5.9 trad in their sleep. so it barely counts as "real climbing"....clip bolts if you want to be cool. besides, building tick lists and point scoring systems is for losers. it would be waaaay beneath a REAL traddie to even worry about this issue.

Post by **caribe** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:23 pm

pigsteak: i don't think this is true of old school 5.9 trad. No way.

Post by **Myke Dronez** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:47 pm

Yeah, you can go climb Raindancer in tennis shoes for the points or you can go do Cheaper than a Movie cause you know black type is gangsta!
At least you get an extra point when you do get a send thats >5.8. If you want your points go do Autumn and Rock Wars- they're pretty straightforward with the gear and the climbing.
If you really want some gimme trad points check out Liken the Lichen, its short n' sweet.

Post by **dbarless** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:29 pm

i think this little piggie has gone to the market....i dont think most bolt clippers could walk 5.9 trad in their sleep...trad is not as intuitive as sport, its a different world of technique, and the head game is way more challenging...

Post by **p0bray01** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:57 pm

dbarless....i agree

Website · Post by **MSMITH** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 3:01 pm

Get stronger...? And to Dave, you are the Trad god after the 5 trad routes you've done. Please enlighten us with your bountiful knowledge

Post by **ynot** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:22 pm

pigsteak wrote:most sporties can walk 5.9 trad in their sleep. so it barely counts as "real climbing"....clip bolts if you want to be cool. besides, building tick lists and point scoring systems is for losers. it would be waaaay beneath a REAL traddie to even worry about this issue.

Yeah? I remember a certain sportie falling off a 5.8 on his second piece...

Post by **caribe** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:47 pm

Tradies v. Sporties reminds me of a movie:
If you are old enough to remember this one, you better run to the doctor get the cholesterol and the prostate checked.

The Outsiders (1983)

Francis Ford Coppola

Matt Dillon ... Dallas 'Dally' Winston
Ralph Macchio ... Johnny Cade
C. Thomas Howell ... Ponyboy Curtis
Patrick Swayze ... Darrel 'Darry' Curtis
Rob Lowe ... Sodapop Curtis
Emilio Estevez ... Keith 'Two-Bit' Mathews
Tom Cruise ... Steve Randle
Glenn Withrow ... Tim Shepard
Diane Lane ... Sherri 'Cherry' Valance
Leif Garrett ... Bob Sheldon

Post by **ynot** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:52 pm

At first I was bummed at my lack of points. I have about as many sends as I do points. Then I figured the person who started the point thing climbs 5.12 trad and must know what he's doing so I just let well enough alone.

Post by **Josephine** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:19 pm

ynot wrote:At first I was bummed at my lack of points. I have about as many sends as I do points. Then I figured the person who started the point thing climbs 5.12 trad and must know what he's doing so I just let well enough alone.

good call.

Post by **ReachHigh** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:54 am

I think every route sent should get at least one point. Makes a life of climbing 5.7 seem a little more fulfilling.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 5:31 am

Josephine wrote:
ynot wrote:At first I was bummed at my lack of points. I have about as many sends as I do points. Then I figured the person who started the point thing climbs 5.12 trad and must know what he's doing so I just let well enough alone.
good call.

but he doesn't climb trad anymore...he has seen the light, hence the skewed preference for sport.

caribe....sorry about the comparison..let me re-phrase. most solid sporties can walk 5.10 trad blind folded.