The Trad Climbers Inequality

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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flip
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Post by flip » Tue Apr 15, 2008 6:58 pm

Sweet!

Will you give me the bata too?

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Post by 512OW » Wed Apr 16, 2008 3:53 am

Every piece of it. I think theres a video of me doin it out there.... was that on Jeffs video?
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Post by pigsteak » Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:33 am

JR wrote:Pigsteak...Pigsteak... Tsk..Tsk...I just looked at your ticklist.. You haven't done shit it the Trad realm. No wonder all the contemptuous remarks. You never even bothered. You should check it out if you ever put down the drill. It is super fun. Tape up and go Trad'in.
man, after killing everything in the valley, climbing choss trad at the red is less than satisfactory. :wink:

truth be told, we moved to KY three years ago to climb sport. period. I like the athletic challenges and number of ppitches you can do with sport. I climb for the athletic outlet of sport climbing, NOT for the asthetics. Humping gear to a climb, racking up, taping up, getting a noon start, climbing 3 pitches and rapping, etc..these are NOT what attract me to the rock. I like climbing for the pure athletic difficulty. I enjoy bouldering on my small garage wall, to get in shape for sport climbs.

I realize others have other demands/goals for their climbing, and that is for sure cool. But to somehow glamorize trad climbing (or sport climbing)as the holy grail, and to pretend that 5.8 crack is equivalent of 5.10 sport....naw, doesn't fly.
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Post by Bruisebrother » Wed Apr 16, 2008 4:43 pm

Piggie, you need to do a bunch of the old-school 5.8's in the Gorge. You'll come away with a whole new attitude about compareing sport to Trad. JR will show you a few!

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Post by 512OW » Wed Apr 16, 2008 4:54 pm

Old school 5.8 feels exactly like new school 5.8 feels exactly like 5.8.

Its 5.8.

Period.
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Post by 512OW » Wed Apr 16, 2008 5:01 pm

Actually, I just did a search for "oldschool" 5.8's.

Some of the grades are definitely wrong.

Good Times 5.8+.... more like 8-, and thats pushin it.
Muscle Shoals 5.8+..... no harder than 5.7 on a humid day in tennis shoes
Snake 5.8???.... are you kidding?
Frenchburg Overhangs 5.8.... uh, what? 5.7 maybe. If you carry a rack meant for El Cap, wear Chuck Taylors, and do it blindfolded.


And thats just the beginning...
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Post by RRO » Wed Apr 16, 2008 5:36 pm

you have just plain out and out lost your mind mr 52TR. you cannot in anyway possible compare the above routes and their difficulty to say , please dont feed the triceritops, audie, face up to the crack, or the slabs at roadside and they are the same grades. i aint getting into the whole sport and trad debate that has played out year after year, gigabyte after byte. but sir, you cannot with a straight face compare those routes to sport routes of the same grade in this area. as far as harder routes. different trades, different skills, nothing better, nothing worse... but they are different. kinda like blue and whire collar work.
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512OW
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Post by 512OW » Wed Apr 16, 2008 5:43 pm

I can and will. They all feel the same to me.

Sorry.
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Post by RRO » Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:06 pm

must be the new ropes.........
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Post by Andrew » Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:18 pm

Hahahahahaha new ropes. I get it. Zing.
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Post by 512OW » Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:22 pm

Hell no. I'm not climbin any of that choss on my new ropes.

Its because I'm short, and climbing is easier for short people.
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Post by Andrew » Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:49 pm

^truth again.
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Post by Horatio Felacio » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:20 pm

512OW wrote:Actually, I just did a search for "oldschool" 5.8's.

Some of the grades are definitely wrong.

Good Times 5.8+.... more like 8-, and thats pushin it.
Muscle Shoals 5.8+..... no harder than 5.7 on a humid day in tennis shoes
Snake 5.8???.... are you kidding?
Frenchburg Overhangs 5.8.... uh, what? 5.7 maybe. If you carry a rack meant for El Cap, wear Chuck Taylors, and do it blindfolded.


And thats just the beginning...
can you actually distinguish 5.8+ from 5.8- or 5.7+? impressive. i have hard enough time distinguishing between whole number grades sometimes...even between 5.10's and 5.11's and even some 5.11's and 5.12's and even some 5.12's and 5.13's.
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Post by Horatio Felacio » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:37 pm

i'd also like to weigh in on the point of this thread. the jerries are right. they deserve credit for the all the routes 5.0 and up. they also need extra points for trad routes. it is a definite fact that trad climbing is WAY harder than sport climbing...placing gear, mental focus, reading the routes correctly to make them safe, etc. let's take any trad climb...for example snotrocket...i'd bet money that any 5.12+ climber gets their head kicked in by that route. it takes an extreme amount of focus, technique, and dedication to send that thing...even on toprope. by no means is any ordinary person going to send that route (by ordinary, i mean an average human being, of which all should be able to climb most 5.12+ routes)...only highly skilled professionals...maybe even demi-gods by mere mortal standards. the pure strength alone required for sending that route is above and beyond the requisite skills of almost anyone in the universe. just think, a person that can send that route must be a model for any human being wanting to achieve perfection. they must not only be in extreme physical shape, but also be able to endure any physical condition, make the ladies swoon with adoration and lust, and must also sustain a superior intellect compared to his common man. back to the point, ray, all climbs deserve points (based on an exponential scale, not linear as is now the case). trad climbs in particular deserve, at the very least, 1/3 more of the total points...also increasing exponentially. that is all.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast

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Post by the lurkist » Thu Apr 17, 2008 3:48 am

I heard a prerequisite for even tying in for Snotrocket is being able to make chicks org by voice command.
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