Good routes for practice falls

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Post Reply
laurenannhill
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:58 pm

Good routes for practice falls

Post by laurenannhill » Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:04 pm

Hello everyone!

I'm planning a trip to the Red this fall, and am wondering if anyone can suggest some good sport routes in the 10s, (or maybe low 11s), that are good for taking practice falls? I'm thinking, well bolted and slightly overhanging...

What do you think? This is the season that I will conquer this fear of falling business once and for all!

Thank you!

User avatar
Rx2Climb
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 85
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2014 12:06 am
Location: Louisville

Re: Good routes for practice falls

Post by Rx2Climb » Mon Sep 04, 2017 12:26 am

Johnny B. Good - 11a http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... te&id=1314

Tall with easy (5.8 maybe easier) climbing for 50 feet. Then a severally overhung section of a few bolts to the anchors. I have purposely slacked climbers so they will take +30 ft whips on the route. Very clean falls. Best route to fall on in the red?
Drugs are Cool!

DrRockso
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 140
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:59 pm
Location: Northern Kentucky
Contact:

Re: Good routes for practice falls

Post by DrRockso » Mon Sep 04, 2017 8:00 pm

Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch

laurenannhill
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:58 pm

Re: Good routes for practice falls

Post by laurenannhill » Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:02 am

Thank you! Super helpful!!

Chiyram
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 38
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:03 pm

Re: Good routes for practice falls

Post by Chiyram » Tue Sep 05, 2017 10:39 am

Does the grade change the fall some how? A local gym, if you have one, is a good place to take some practice falls. Then go to the Red to crush your projs with nerves of steel. Or like me, bring your nerves of yarn and hope they get strong.

Mdjagg
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2017 2:31 pm

Re: Good routes for practice falls

Post by Mdjagg » Fri Aug 31, 2018 10:13 am

DrRockso wrote:Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch
In regards to Getting Lucky in Ky and Plate Techtonics, I wouldn't mind falling on this route if it happened, becasue it is overhung a bit, but I wouldn't go there to practice falling. Those routes have very un-uniform faces and you could easily sprain an ankle if you hit in between any of the plates. Just my opinion.

If you're at The Gallery, +1 for Johnny B Good for open air practice falls, and then Preacher's Daughter has a nice clean face to practice coming into the wall. This one is just barely overhung. It's also one of my favorite routes near its grade. Super fun.

DrRockso
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 140
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:59 pm
Location: Northern Kentucky
Contact:

Re: Good routes for practice falls

Post by DrRockso » Fri Aug 31, 2018 11:54 pm

I
Mdjagg wrote:
DrRockso wrote:Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch
In regards to Getting Lucky in Ky and Plate Techtonics, I wouldn't mind falling on this route if it happened, becasue it is overhung a bit, but I wouldn't go there to practice falling. Those routes have very un-uniform faces and you could easily sprain an ankle if you hit in between any of the plates. Just my opinion.

If you're at The Gallery, +1 for Johnny B Good for open air practice falls, and then Preacher's Daughter has a nice clean face to practice coming into the wall. This one is just barely overhung. It's also one of my favorite routes near its grade. Super fun.
As a climbing guide I have had dozens of clients learning to lead climb take practice falls on Plate Tectonics and Getting Lucky, no sprained ankles yet. Perhaps you need a better belayer.

Prog_Rocker
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 6:54 pm

Re: Good routes for practice falls

Post by Prog_Rocker » Sun Sep 02, 2018 1:14 pm

What makes a practice lead fall different from a victory whip? ;)

DrRockso
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 140
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:59 pm
Location: Northern Kentucky
Contact:

Re: Good routes for practice falls

Post by DrRockso » Sun Sep 02, 2018 11:25 pm

One is practicing for an inevitable normal part of sport climbing, the other involves getting several yards of extra slack from your belayer to make the fall unnecessarily long, no doubt a fun practice outside of Muir ;) Unfortunately we have to deal with morons like these guys https://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-w ... 5-12a-rrg/ that cause rules like this to exist at areas like Muir.

Mdjagg
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2017 2:31 pm

Re: Good routes for practice falls

Post by Mdjagg » Mon Oct 01, 2018 3:40 pm

DrRockso wrote:I
Mdjagg wrote:
DrRockso wrote:Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch
In regards to Getting Lucky in Ky and Plate Techtonics, I wouldn't mind falling on this route if it happened, becasue it is overhung a bit, but I wouldn't go there to practice falling. Those routes have very un-uniform faces and you could easily sprain an ankle if you hit in between any of the plates. Just my opinion.

If you're at The Gallery, +1 for Johnny B Good for open air practice falls, and then Preacher's Daughter has a nice clean face to practice coming into the wall. This one is just barely overhung. It's also one of my favorite routes near its grade. Super fun.
As a climbing guide I have had dozens of clients learning to lead climb take practice falls on Plate Tectonics and Getting Lucky, no sprained ankles yet. Perhaps you need a better belayer.
Thanks bra. I'll be looking for a better belayer, now that you mention it.

EllenMontes
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2019 6:14 am

Re: Good routes for practice falls

Post by EllenMontes » Wed Apr 10, 2019 6:25 am

What is some best place for climbing in Canada?

Post Reply