Muir ratings

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Muir ratings

Post by sklag » Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:41 am

Muir valley ratings... Soft or spot on? consensus please.
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Post by pkananen » Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:52 am

not that simple...

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Post by Andrew » Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:23 am

There are all over the place just like the rest of the Red.
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Post by Meadows » Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:40 am

+1 on Andrew's comment.

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Post by allah » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:15 am

you need to compare all the route grades in muir to one another and not want to compare them to routes else where. grades are different everywhere

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Post by dhoyne » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:50 am

Many grades have changed since they were set; many different setters have graded climbs, many different cliffs have been opened at different times. There's going to be some difference of opinion. Just have fun and climb.
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Post by weber » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:21 am

dhoyne wrote:Many grades have changed since they were set; many different setters have graded climbs, many different cliffs have been opened at different times. There's going to be some difference of opinion. Just have fun and climb.
Ditto that. And, there is another factor.

Many of the climbs have become more difficult over time as holds have broken off. The Animal Crackers Wall, for example, started out as a nice beginners' wall with 7/8 starts. As many of the crimpers have disappeared, the starts are about a point higher in difficulty. It seems that fewer critical holds have broken off on the higher graded lines at the Sanctuary and Solarium, for example.
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Post by cliftongifford » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:28 am

All over the place, but also on average they feel a little soft. Especially the trad routes. I think the reason the sport routes feel so soft is because, for the most part, they're not as mentally commiting as the rest of the gorge. The bolts are much closer together than most other crags I've ever been to...

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Post by SCIN » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:43 am

If you think the ratings at Muir are soft then you aren't climbing there enough or you're avoiding Kipp's lines. Or you're referencing outdated material.
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Post by DriskellHR » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:51 am

I'd say there is a "assessment" period (2-3 yrs?) in which routes get more traffic and a better consensus is determined. Everyone climbs differntley as well, Give it time my guess is they will even out.
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Post by cliftongifford » Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:43 am

SCIN wrote:If you think the ratings at Muir are soft then you aren't climbing there enough or you're avoiding Kipp's lines. Or you're referencing outdated material.
maybe you should take a look at my spray and you'd find that I've climbed in muir quite a bit lately... they're soft. outdated material? is the online guide outdated?

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Post by SCIN » Fri Jul 17, 2009 10:10 am

I've been updating the online guide to correct the obvious soft routes but could've missed some. Are there any in particular that you can name?
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Post by Meadows » Fri Jul 17, 2009 10:41 am

De Bibliothek has some for real 11s.

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Post by Barnacle Ben » Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:01 am

Please don't downgrade any of the 10's because that's all the harder I can climb and I don't want any of my few 10's (double digits) getting downgraded to 9's (single digits.) It would really affect my psyche and my points.
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Post by rustyvasectomy » Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:06 am

I would say muir valley grades are dangerously soft.

I know a dude who upon one of his first visits at the red, went to muir the first day. He came back the night after all psyched because he bolt to bolted up a bunch of twelves and had "great success." While trying to hold back my shit eating grin, I asked him what he planned to do with his new found ability to scale "5.12." He then announced his next day plans of going to long wall to try "the gift."

Now, normally I would encourage such behaviour and even possibly come watch (moments like these are the spice of life). But, this guy is a lawyer and once really helped me out so I figured I owed him one.

Sure enough, the next day the guy found himself at the second bolt of "the gift" with his leg behind the rope and his 16 year old daughter belaying him. After an upside down fall and many failed attempts to do real 5.12 moves, the guy bailed and had me clean his gear.

Come to think of it, no, muir grades aren't soft. Especially the trad lines. Be sure to go and attempt to climb comparative grades at gorge and let me know exactly which climbs you plan on bailing off. :twisted:
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