Spraylord Wanted

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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pigsteak
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Spraylord Wanted

Post by pigsteak » Mon Oct 05, 2009 8:00 pm

So let's encourage each other and motivate our fellow athlete's to great things this Fall. I want to hear your stories of challenge, success and failure as you reach your goals this Fall. Please start by posting your primary goal for this Fall, and then up date us as you strive for that goal. Hearing the great stories of battle are real motivators.

I'll start.

I bolted a pretty sweet looking line at Choco Factory that will prbably fall in the hard 12 range, which is a bit above my current fitness level. It is called "Grin without a Cat". For three bolts it runs up chossy rubble, and then a 35 foot overhanging tufa like feature stares at you from above, laughing and daring you to make contact. Once you pull on to the 20 degree overhanging section, game on. Powerful moves between slopes and highly textured sidepulls are made easier with mind boggling backsteps and heel hooks. Clipping the 6th bolt feels like the crux, but only until you climb three feet higher. Long move to left hand sidepull, bump up the feature again with the left, then fall into the right hand sidepull. Now, you are pinching the tufa, and still have two moves to go to the next bolt. I can't feel this gassed, I have only climbed 15 feet of steep. Too bad buddy, time to kiss the rope. With only one shake the entire headwall, you assume the route is over once you hit the vert section. Think again. Two decent hands lead to a shake before a surge for a crimp three feet away. Tugging on this slopey half pad crimp while hand/foot matching just might be the crux for the jug hauler. 10 feet of wonderous slab and you can gasp for air and clip the chains.

Grin without a Cat. Hard 12. My nemesis. Time to get bendy and powerful at the same time.

keksan, scobro, christian leblanc, rjackson,jeff neal, josh and matt. thanks for the great times we've had out there so far, making trails, putting up sport and trad, laughing, harasssing each other, and dreaming of the perfect line. maybe it isn't about the climbing after all.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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der uber
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Post by der uber » Mon Oct 05, 2009 8:47 pm

Thanks for blowing the onsight, with all your detailed beta. I eel like I've been on it already.

My goal is to send as many of the following climbs as possible, in no particular order:

Skin Boat
The Force
The Legend
Prometheus Unbound
and whatever else I stumble upon.
Oh, and your project. Looking forward to it opening up.

The Legend would be my nemesis because I was awfully close working it this spring, but couldn't close the deal.

*edit - And good luck to all this season! Hope you send.

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Post by SCIN » Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:33 pm

White Man's Overbite. Did every move first try this weekend. Doesn't sound like too much of an accomplishment but earlier in the year it took me about 15 tries each time to do the first boulder problem. I can't wait to start stringing sections together. The hard part is 18 moves for me. That's about as long as the boulder problems I've been training in my gym on. I think I can do it but it will be interesting. I can't even clip any of the draws without grabbing them right now.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

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Post by anticlmber » Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:54 pm

piggie, my hands are sweating, thanks.

i'm psyched to be done with this semester(sorta) and being down for several days at a time and getting strong. i'm psyched, more so than in a long time. i'm coming for you pig ass.
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Post by J-Rock » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:03 pm

Made a 10 page tick list of routes and boulder problems to do here in the Carolinas before the end of the year. Unfortunately the wish list is growing faster than the skin on my fingertips. Tengo muchas cosas que hacer pero no tengo tiempo para nada...
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder

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rjackson
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Post by rjackson » Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:08 am

Nicely worded.



OK, I'll commit...

Through The Looking Glass.

I'm thinking maybe we'll trade some catches?
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad

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Jeff
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Post by Jeff » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:05 am

I've finaly had a chance to work my closed project 2 days in a row instead of a month between tries. I am not one to work something. Usually if I don't get a route after a couple of goes I will get on something else.
I am so close it's both encouraging and discouraging at the same time. By the time I've got the moves dialed in, I'm gassed. Still, since I usually think of climbing all week at work, I now have specific beta to reherse and visualize.
Watch out project, this old man thinks your goin' down soon!
Just wish it were at Choco for more good times, harrassment, and encouragement!

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Post by camhead » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:54 am

I'm not sure that I want to spray about my current "project," since I am a terrible project climber, and it seems like every time I get close on something at the Red, the weather and/or weakness steps in and shuts me down.

I will say that this past weekend, the crux felt MUCH easier than it did last year, even though I did not have the sequence up to the crux as dialed as I used to.
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!

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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:59 am

please share camhead..you can bet many of us won't be sending our projs this fall, but it will be fun to keep up with the thought process, the challenge, pain, euphoria, anguish, elation, etc as you work it.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

Nick
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Post by Nick » Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:36 am

Got on Snooker over the weekend and am super psyched. It feels hard but I think it will go fairly quickly. The goal is to break into the 13s this season. We'll see how it goes...

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Post by tania » Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:46 am

Nevermore, for sure :roll:
"Life is a balance of holding on and letting go." ~Keith Urban

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Post by camhead » Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:54 am

pigsteak wrote:please share camhead..you can bet many of us won't be sending our projs this fall, but it will be fun to keep up with the thought process, the challenge, pain, euphoria, anguish, elation, etc as you work it.
heh. Ok, twist my arm Kipp. Like Nick, my goal is to break into 13s this season, and the project is WTOK. I'm calling it WTFOK, though.
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!

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Post by ahab » Tue Oct 06, 2009 11:24 am

tania wrote:Nevermore, for sure :roll:
better hurry. once this thing starts showing up on pro climber blogs it’ll be a race to climb the best multi pitch, gumby-proof, mixed line this side of the mississippi. I can see it now…hordes of people, marching up to raven rock only to stand in line. patiently waiting, palms sweaty with anticipation, for their turn on the masterpiece that is nevermore. :wink:
buy the Ticket take the Ride

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Post by rustyvasectomy » Tue Oct 06, 2009 1:40 pm

SCIN wrote:White Man's Overbite. Did every move first try this weekend. Doesn't sound like too much of an accomplishment but earlier in the year it took me about 15 tries each time to do the first boulder problem. I can't wait to start stringing sections together. The hard part is 18 moves for me. That's about as long as the boulder problems I've been training in my gym on. I think I can do it but it will be interesting. I can't even clip any of the draws without grabbing them right now.
as far as i can remember, you clip the draw off the huge jug after the slab, skip the next one and clip the one after that.

then skip all draws until you are on the jug after the boulder problem.

this way you only clip one draw through the whole hard part. i took basically every fall possible as that rig took like 30 tries. the worst one was for sure from the draw you clip in the middle with the one before that skipped. you fall pretty low but its safe i think.
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Post by SCIN » Tue Oct 06, 2009 1:43 pm

Man, that's gonna be scary trying to clip the draw just after the first one skipped because clipping from that little gaston crimp thing isn't exactly easy. Good to hear you tested all of the falls though.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio

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