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Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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mike_anderson
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Post by mike_anderson » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:35 pm

I had big plans to work on Nagypapa this fall. I've been filling in a good route pyramid over the last year, and felt like I was ready for a route at that grade. So, I got on it last weekend, and WHOA! I did three burns or so over two days, and did all but one or two moves, but linkage seems to be a lifetime away. I've been on routes before that took me a couple days to figure out all the moves, but they always had a low crux or a decent rest before the crux, but this thing is ridiculous. There is one shitty rest halfway up, then a series of crimps that I can barely hang onto after resting on the draw for 5 minutes. At this point I'd be psyched if I could just redpoint up to the crux, let alone doing it.

Needless to say, I think the route is beyond me at this point. I'm optimistic that those crimps will feel better when it gets colder, but I'm afraid that the temps were not the problem. So my fall season just cleared up, and I'm not sure what to do with it yet. I think I'm going to circle the wagons and work on some easier stuff to get stronger.

I think I'll get on Dracula this weekend....

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SCIN
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Post by SCIN » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:40 pm

Dracula is bad ass. The end of Nagypapa is insane.
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mike_anderson
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Post by mike_anderson » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:52 pm

Yeah, I was pretty psyched to figure out the opening boulder problem, but the actual crux at the end totally demoralized me. Good luck on WMOB...I've heard it's a total paddle-fest, but I've also hear you're pretty strong.

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bcombs
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Post by bcombs » Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:19 pm

The original plan was to be in shape to send the first 12c this season.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... 72&start=0

I think I'm close. I've done 3 12b's in the last month or so. A couple more b's and maybe in late October early November it will be time to pick the c. Those I climb with the most have suggested Belly of the Beast because its soft in the grade and might suit me.

rustyvasectomy
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Post by rustyvasectomy » Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:10 am

nagypapa is harder than most of the 14s at the red. way harder than gods own stone for instance.
"It’s a not so secret secret that people who call themselvs trad climbers dont actually climb. They just post shit on rocklimbing.com all night while masturbating to Parrollelojams."

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Post by therookie » Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:20 am

rustyvasectomy wrote:nagypapa is harder than most of the 14s at the red. way harder than gods own stone for instance.

but it is also much better than god's own

mike_anderson
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Post by mike_anderson » Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:19 pm

rustyvasectomy wrote:nagypapa is harder than most of the 14s at the red. way harder than gods own stone for instance.
Thanks for your vote of confidence, but I think these comparisons of which route is harder than which just comes down to what your strengths and weaknesses are. I usually do better on bouldery routes, so I thought it would suit me, but I guess it's a little too bouldery. It sure has cool moves though.

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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak » Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:22 pm

after this weekend, I expect some updates. keep us motivated folks. anyone out there have goals a bit more "normal"? anyone looking to lead their first trad line or redpoint their first 11a? what are you doing to get there?
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Post by Andrew » Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:22 pm

I am just trying to make Justin Riddell happy, so far its a project I don't think I will ever do.
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Post by Barnacle Ben » Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:43 pm

pigsteak wrote:after this weekend, I expect some updates. keep us motivated folks. anyone out there have goals a bit more "normal"? anyone looking to lead their first trad line or redpoint their first 11a? what are you doing to get there?
Yeah, I'd like to redpoint my first 11a. Feel free to throw out any suggestions.

To get there, and this is really more of my substantive 'goal' right now, I'm getting mileage on as many 10's as I can. I put together a pretty big list of 10's, along with a few 9's and a few 11's that I'm SLOWLY ticking off. Aside from that I've been dividing my time between climb time and rock quest during the week, some yoga, eating well, and trying not to drink a ton of beer.

The problem is there's so much good beer this time of year.

Another goal of mine is to not suck at/hate slab. I must admit I've kind of put this one on the back burner.
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Post by Andrew » Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:54 pm

never mind.
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Post by rjackson » Wed Oct 07, 2009 2:54 pm

When I started looking for my first 11a there was no question. My partner said it HAD to be Bandolier. The definitive 11a, no questions about it being soft. Do Bandolier and the rest will come. (Plus, Torrent was still open and it was a great approach.) I worked and worked that route. It was not my first 11a though.

My first 11a was Air-Ride Equipped in Muir (which I still think is a cool route). Another good 11a is Whipstocking at Drive-By.

I did finally nail Bandolier one crisp morning. I was going to hang the draws as the warm-up, but each one felt better than the last until I was at the crux. I just kept climbing and it clicked. It was also first time I lowered from a route psyched, but quiet and content. It was a grand self-accomplishment that needed no words. The project was put to bed and it was time to move on.
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cliftongifford
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Post by cliftongifford » Wed Oct 07, 2009 3:47 pm

I guess my goal would be to actually "project" a route... since about every route I've ever climbed I onsighted or hung dog the shit out of it. Sometimes I wonder what grade I could climb if I made it a project.

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caribe
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Post by caribe » Wed Oct 07, 2009 4:36 pm

How do you sleep at night?
cliftongifford wrote:Sometimes I wonder what grade I could climb if I made it a project.

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cliftongifford
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Post by cliftongifford » Wed Oct 07, 2009 5:19 pm

I project routes on my home wall. When I go somewhere to climb on rock I climb within my grade, if I try something harder I usually just flail around and get pissed off.

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