Twinkie & Ro questions?

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Redpoint
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Twinkie & Ro questions?

Post by Redpoint » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:05 pm

I have decided to quit being the clown of the forum(which I didn't mind being btw) and conform to what you all want me to do; sit back and ask questions.

I really want to start my first serious project, and I wanted it to be a really overhung jug haul with a quick approach, and so I was thinking either Ro, or Twinkie, but I can't decide which I should project first.

Now to the questions:

Twinkie: How hard is the slab climbing on the way to the roof, as in what grade is the hardest move on the slab part? One comment said it was 11A, and another said 12A, and what do you all think? I would like a few more opinions, because I don't think I can handle 12A slab yet. I have heard this route is only rated 12A because it's an endurance route, is there any truth to that, or is there really a 12A move on this thing?

Ro: One of my old climbing partners was spraying about climbing 12's at the picnic tables at Miguels, and I asked him if he ever climbed Ro, and he said something like "naa, but screw that route, you can take a nasty fall at the(or did he say trying to clip) the third bolt anyways". Does anybody know what he's talking about, is this a pretty safe route to take falls on? I would hate to crack my lead head open on the first hard project I ever attempted(just joking I'll actually be wearing my helmet for these climbs).
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Post by dhuff » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:36 pm

Neither has hard moves. Twinkie's slab isn't hard, just some weird disgustingly chalky/polished holds. Ro is nothing but huge holds. I don't see (unless you have a terrible belayer) how you could have a nasty fall on either one of these once you get the first one or two bolts clipped.

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Post by Brentucky » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:38 pm

If a long draw is hanging at the third bolt on Ro it is easy to clip; otherwise it is tough and potentially dangerous hanging the draw if this climb is at your limit (was damn tough for me anyway).
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Post by Izzy » Fri Oct 30, 2009 1:04 am

I think there's at least three or four videos of people climbing RO on youtube. It might help to watch them.
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Post by pawilkes » Fri Oct 30, 2009 6:21 am

The slab on Twinkie is probably about 11b, but its more committing than anything. I think Twinkie is the more straight forward route. Ro takes a bit more body positioning and technique. I personally felt Twinkie was easier
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Post by Saxman » Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:30 am

Your spray list has your hardest lead as 10b. Going from 10b to 12a is one hell of a jump. Good luck.
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Post by Savage » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:04 am

Ro is definitely more powerful than twinkie. If you are tall, twinkie's slab becomes easier and you can reach past the bad holds on the overhang. Overall, I reckon its easier..just pumpy.

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Post by Artsay » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:32 am

pawilkes wrote:The slab on Twinkie is probably about 11b, but its more committing than anything. I think Twinkie is the more straight forward route. Ro takes a bit more body positioning and technique. I personally felt Twinkie was easier
My thoughts exactly.
Do Twinkie. It's so fun and probably gets less traffic than Ro.
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Post by krampus » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:37 am

I consider myself a pretty damn good belayer and a fall at the third (on ro)can put your feet on the ground.....softly. I think most injuries occur while cleaning. Twinkie is super fun, so long as you don't have to clean it.
Last edited by krampus on Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by jordancolburn » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:37 am

well, i've worked on both, but sent neither, so maybe I can offer some insight from someone who doesn't warm up on .12's(or send them....yet). I think Ro seemed a little easier. The slab part of twinkie wasn't too hard, I like the have the second bolt clipped to start though(the first one will keep you from tumbling off the edge, but not sure you wouldn't hit the ledge). Hard part(for me) comes maybe halfway to the roof.
Ro seemed easier overall (I gave it a solid go when I had sent nothing harder than .10s) None of the moves take a lot of thought, just long reaches and endurance, while twinkie seemed to make me think a little more. I didn't think the third clip of RO was a problem, but I always reach way up and clip from really low (probably more dangerous, but i'm more comfortable doing it)

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Post by cliftongifford » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:39 am

I agree w/ saxman... 10b to 12a is a huge leap. but given the choice you should do twinkie just because it always has draws pre-hung. the slab part on twinkie isn't very hard, maybe 10c/d, the overhung part is where I'm usually spit off, between the 8th and 9th bolt... the fall is fun. I suck though.

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Post by JeffCastro » Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:16 am

Being the safety freak that you seem to be, you will not be happy with the state of the pre-hung draws on twinkie.

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Post by Wes » Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:19 am

Twinkie doesn't always have draws, at least I had to hang my own when I did it. Slab move is 11ish probably and there is a kinda move about halfway up the steep part, right before the rest.

Personally, I am not much of a fan of Ro - just don't think it is that great of a route, and not as good as a whole lot of other 11d/12a's. If you want a proj at roadside, you should pick stay the hand instead.
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Post by Savage » Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:28 am

i agree with Wes... stay the hand is way more fun... harder, but more fun for sure.

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Post by Redpoint » Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:48 am

Wow, thanks for your help everyone.

Well the reason I am going strait to 12's is because I thought about projecting an overhung 11, but then I realized the only ones I could think of were nothing but crimps, and I would rather climb one of the reds famous jug hauls. From what I understand both of these routes don't have any 12 moves on them anyhow, and so I'm sure I can handle it.

I climb hard in the gym, one 11 I projected and sent was also projected by a really good climber, and it even took him a few days to get it, and I only ever saw one other person send it(but I'm sure more than a few people had already sent it). As soon as it started it was a really pumpy crimpy boulder problem where you are really leaning this way and that, then you have to make this huge move on a really shallow crimp out to this honeycomb hold. Getting on top of that thing was like pulling a roof since the hold was so big and stuck out so far. Right after you do that is when the route gets really overhung, and the very next move you had to make was on this pig pinch, but at least I eventually found a way so that I didn't have to match on that thing anymore. After that you had to make these huge shouldery boulder moves back to back to back, and the holds just got worse and worse until finally you get to this ridiculous crux. No matter how many times I did that crux I always sucked at it, until one day I invented a new way to do it. Instead of making the reachy move and walking my feet up the bare wall, I walked my feet way up to some foot chips, took a tiny shake rest since my feet were just good enough that I wouldn't barn-door, then I made the reachy move, and if it wasn't for that I would have never got the send. Compared to the 11B I used to climb there, this route felt so much harder, and took so much more endurance that it might as well of been rated 12A. I doubt rating it that wouldn't have been any more ridiculous as the 12A rating on Ro.

So can anyone recommend any 11C - 12A jug hauls? I now wish I had some more options then just these two.

EDIT: I'll check out Stay the Hand, thanks for the recommendation.
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