Belaying

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

Would you let someone belay you if you saw them...

Drinking a beer?
8
10%
Smoking a joint?
18
23%
Neither.
53
67%
 
Total votes: 79

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SCIN
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Belaying

Post by SCIN » Fri Apr 23, 2010 12:57 pm

Would you let someone belay you if you saw them drinking a beer or smoking weed at the crag? Just wondering. I see it every once in awhile.
Last edited by SCIN on Fri Apr 23, 2010 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Jeff
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Post by Jeff » Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:22 pm

I've never knowing had a catch from someone drinking at the crag, nor would I want one. I've only seen someone drinking at the crag once, years ago, and I wasn't climbing with them.
Weed, on the other hand, yes it's happened.

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Post by bcombs » Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:36 pm

If I trust someone to belay me in the first place, I also trust them enough to refuse if they are not up to the task. This is speaking strictly about friends and acquaintances. If they are a stranger I would want them to be sober.

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Post by krampus » Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:41 pm

sober strangers for sure. You should rephrase the post though because drinking and smoking are completely different scenarios, so different that I can not answer. Drunk belay, hell know. If someone is a competent belayer then being stoned won't change that.
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Post by SCIN » Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:52 pm

I don't smoke weed so I wasn't aware that being high would not make you less attentive. Are you saying it doesn't?
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Post by Crankmas » Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:55 pm

there is a difference for sure... Climb High yes- Climb Crunk?? thats for bouldering

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Post by SCIN » Fri Apr 23, 2010 2:07 pm

Edited the poll but now the initial results are screwed up.
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Post by krampus » Fri Apr 23, 2010 2:33 pm

SCIN wrote:I don't smoke weed so I wasn't aware that being high would not make you less attentive. Are you saying it doesn't?
It would be really hard to find hard proof either way. I have read studies that claim it has little to no effect on short response motor skills like stepping on the brakes, lowering the brake hand, etc. thats why snow boarding and hackysack are achievable while high. Alcohol does effect these motor skills very much and would result in a painful snowboarding experience. Basically, from my experience, activities that require quick physical responses, especially the drilled in instinctual responses of a skilled belayer, would not likely have trouble while high.
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Post by camhead » Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:28 pm

largely irrelevant to me; there are some folks I know fairly well, and I would trust them to belay me even if buzzed a bit. There are others whom I wouldn't trust. But, the same goes for sober folks.
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Post by TankAzz » Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:47 pm

i think it's absurd to assume that smoking thc has no impact on judgments or reflex time. the answer on both accounts for me is absolutely not; if you can't refrain from smoking weed to belay a buddy, your priorities are in the wrong place, and you should consider taking a rest day to blaze up.
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Post by anticlmber » Fri Apr 23, 2010 4:07 pm

the more paranoid i am, the safer everyone else is.

a beer or two over the course of the day is fine, weed, sure. most people that can't smoke and function won't smoke.

the studies i have read say that for regular smokers there is NO reflex/coordination deficits.

i don't let strangers belay me, period.

if a person prefers i not then i won't
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Post by mike_a_lafontaine » Fri Apr 23, 2010 4:19 pm

As a PhD neurochemist, I can say I wouldn't trust anyone to have proper brain function while under the influence of either of these substances.

I think a better question would be, if your kid asked you if it was ok for their buddy to belay them while high, what would you say. If you say "sure", I hope your parent license is revoked.

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Post by anticlmber » Fri Apr 23, 2010 4:22 pm

if my kid is dumb enough to have to ask then (s)he should be revoked.

i've made quite a few catches "under the influence" no problems. i also didn't smoke while climbing for the first two years so that everything got ingrained good.

now if i could just find my keys and belay device......
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Post by Crankmas » Fri Apr 23, 2010 4:26 pm

some people just live their lives and don't feel compelled to dictate how others should live theirs, a lead climber and a belayer can make the call for themselves and people with opinions and pieces of paper may or may not have an influence on their thought processes- wow, they should call it "free climbing"

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Post by toad857 » Fri Apr 23, 2010 4:51 pm

the poll kind of oversimplifies something that is typically a case-by-case kind of thing...

some partners: i would trust my life to an ATC in their hands after ten joints in a row

other people: i wouldn't trust them to top-rope belay me, even straight sober & after coffee.

drunk? nobody should be drunk..... but a nati light with lunch?

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