Using the gri gri with less than a 10.

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Using the gri gri with less than a 10.

Post by Ryland » Mon Apr 26, 2010 12:22 pm

I'm just wondering what kind of opinion people have about using a gri gri with a rope smaller than 10mm. I have heard a lot of people say a 9.8 is totally legit, and that some people have even climbed with a 9.2 and a gri gri. I'm just wondering what the consensus is; is petzl just covering their ass, or is climbing on less than a 10 significantly more dangerous?

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Post by anticlmber » Mon Apr 26, 2010 12:32 pm

under 9.8mm with a slightly used gri-gri, and a climber under 125lbs.(guesstimate) equals slippage. especially the dry-treated ropes.

seen it, experienced it (as the belayer)[i'm no 125lbs kid]

with that combo it really is imperative to keep a brake hand on the rope.
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Post by bcombs » Mon Apr 26, 2010 12:33 pm

I haven't belayed someone on, or climbed on a rope larger than 9.8 for awhile and I use a gri-gri. One thing to keep in mind if using a skinnier rope is to make sure to use a think pear biner with the gri-gri. Something like a Omega Jake or Petzl Attache. A skinner biner will let the device move just a bit more before the cam engages.

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Post by Suf » Mon Apr 26, 2010 2:11 pm

I use a 9.8 with a Gri-Gri, and it works fine. you have a to be a tiny bit more careful on the belay, but overall it works just fine.

I wouldn't go too much lower, though. just as a personal preference.
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Post by toad857 » Mon Apr 26, 2010 2:21 pm

my 9.7 PMI slipped a little when it was new, but it has fattened up and hasn't slipped at all since the first week or so. but, as has been stated before many times, keep your hand on the brake as if you were using an ATC. the brake hand never needs to leave the rope, so 'slipping' shouldn't be an issue. right?

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Post by anticlmber » Mon Apr 26, 2010 2:42 pm

my 9.4 is scary even for me.

learned i really don't like it in an ATC
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Post by ynp1 » Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:01 pm

I use smaller then 10 with my grigri all the time. Mostly 9.8, but a lot with 9.5ish. It catches a fall fine, it may SLOWLY feed through after the fall, but nothing a brake hand cant easily stop. I always remind my belayer when they are using a smaller rope that if feeds faster when lowering. I think lowering can be a bigger problem then the falling...
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Post by viktor » Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:21 pm

I use a sterling 9.5 rope with my grigri all the time. I usually warn people about the diameter of the rope before I climb and to be careful. I've only had one incident where my belayer said there was some slippage.

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Post by clif » Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:38 pm

ok, i'm just being a bitch at this point, but.. it seems widely accepted that dangerous activity is ok as long as one manages hazards and limits exposure. but are saving a few ounces on rope weight (and higher rope retirement rate?) worth the redpoint success rate? skinny ropes seem a poor gambit to me.

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Post by ynp1 » Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:59 pm

clif, yes
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Post by clif » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:11 pm

you're weak

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Post by Crankmas » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:17 pm

my experience- being a tad more robust than your average Madness Cave dweller my climbing partner who by the way ain't no twiggy himself can relate to ynp1 in that the lowering was more an issue than the fall catching, we really appreciated having a glove on the brake side- that was with the now gone 9.5, the 9.8 and above are no issue

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Post by Meadows » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:34 pm

I use a 9.5 Sterling Fusion and it works great with a grigri, although in the beginning I treated my grigri as though it were an ATC. Now the rope has swelled to where it feels like a 9.8 or a 10.

For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri. From my experience, it's harder to mess up. One of the caveats though is that it doesn't work on thick ropes.

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Post by caribe » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:52 pm

Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.
Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0

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Post by Shamis » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:53 pm

I used a 9.5 with a gri-gri with no issues at all.

for brand new slick ropes under 9.8 you might get some slippage, but not during a fall, you will only get slippage under gentle load like really LIGHT climber gently leaning back on a vertical wall.

As long as the belayer isn't totally clueless it shouldn't be a problem. I'd wouldn't want to try the gri-gri with anything under 9mm though.

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