Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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One-Fall
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Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Post by One-Fall » Mon May 24, 2010 8:09 pm

Can you step out on a limb and give what you think certain problems within routes would be rated? Just to get started:

Ro, Strevels, Tic Tac Toe, TOC, TOC direct, Wild Yet Tasty, Dinosaur, Samurai, Nicoderm, First 3 bolts of the Legend, Hoofmaker, Harvest, Take That Katie Brown, Aquaduct Pockets . . . pretty much any route with a discernable crux.

thanks for the help!
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Post by camhead » Mon May 24, 2010 8:35 pm

All of the cruxes are v4. But some of the v4's are harder than others.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN » Mon May 24, 2010 9:11 pm

My memory is bad but here's my guess:

Ro - V3
Strevels - V4-V5
Tic Tac Toe - V4-V5
TOC Direct - V5-V6 (bottom)
Samurai - V4
Nicoderm - V15
Legend - V6-V7
Hoofmaker - V4-V5
Harvest - V3? (no defined crux really)
Golden Touch - V6-V7 (height dependent)
Falls City - V7-V8
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Post by pigsteak » Mon May 24, 2010 9:23 pm

notice how SCIN doesn't answer the routes you asked for, but throws in those he walks in sneakers...interesting.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN » Mon May 24, 2010 9:25 pm

I answered every route he wanted and added in a couple extra I remember. You just don't understand the hip abbreviations that Lee used.
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Post by pigsteak » Mon May 24, 2010 9:27 pm

Wild Yet Tasty? What was the hip abrev....River City Falls?

Dinosaur?..geesh, you old farts have Alzheimers....
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Post by Meadows » Mon May 24, 2010 10:33 pm

Man, I boulder better than I think I do. Thanks, Ray! Dave probably thinks they're all V1, although he thinks the start of Iniquity is V10.

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Post by crayon » Mon May 24, 2010 11:08 pm

Iniquity start is maybe hard (and painful) V4 or V5--feels super shitty in the summer, though. A lip broke off of the slopey pocket thing out left that the first move is to; maybe it was easier before?

Wild, Yet Tasty seemed like a hard V3.

Aquaduct--maybe hard V2?

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Post by JR » Mon May 24, 2010 11:18 pm

camhead wrote:All of the cruxes are v4. But some of the v4's are harder than others.


I concur*. I have no idea why V4 is the magic number for the Red. The few routes that have moves harder than v4, I would call height dependent v4.

*All routes in the 5.12 range.

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Post by schwagpad » Tue May 25, 2010 10:45 am

The first couple moves on A Clean Well-lighted Face are hard. V10?
Revival crux - v5-v6
Second Nature - V7-V8

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Post by jordancolburn » Tue May 25, 2010 10:54 am

Ro has a discernable crux? Not that I have sent it, but all parts of it felt pretty equal to me, it's my weak-sauce lack of endurance that makes it hard.

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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Post by anticlmber » Tue May 25, 2010 11:02 am

tic-tac-toe-v3/4(depends on beta) scissor-v3
Ro-v2/3
strevels-v4(if youve been bouldering, not as bad)
wild-v3
jersey-v4/5
aqua-v2
aural pleasur-v3
to defy-v1
relaxed atmo-v3
hippocrit-v13
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Post by Redpoint » Tue May 25, 2010 1:21 pm

Some guy at Miguels said Fuzzy Undercling has a V6 start, anybody disagree? :)

If the route is rated 11A, then shouldn't the hardest move on the route be 11A, and therefor the start should just be a V1?
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Post by Andrew » Tue May 25, 2010 1:39 pm

Did you know that everything people say at miguels is true.
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Post by anticlmber » Tue May 25, 2010 2:09 pm

yeah, like andrew is a cool stron nice guy with a huge schlong.
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