Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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Post by Dhaulagiri » Tue May 25, 2010 3:19 pm

jordancolburn wrote:Ro has a discernable crux? Not that I have sent it, but all parts of it felt pretty equal to me, it's my weak-sauce lack of endurance that makes it hard.
One could argue that pulling through the big left facing scoop half way up is harder than the rest of the moves on the route.
Redpoint wrote:Some guy at Miguels said Fuzzy Undercling has a V6 start, anybody disagree? :)
Given the erosion at the base of the route the start probably feels V6 if you're too short to reach the holds...

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Post by drifter » Tue May 25, 2010 3:31 pm

Routes that I remember having definite cruxes:

Hoofmaker V5
High Hard One V5
The Sauce V3
Bottom of Harvest V3
Tuskan Raider V3/4
Check Your Grip V2/3
Spank V4 or 5
Iniquity V4 (ouch)
Jesus Wept V3/4

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Post by Dhaulagiri » Tue May 25, 2010 4:13 pm

Paranoia - V6/7x2
Fuzzy - V1/2
Tissue Tiger - V4
Tuskan Raider - V5
Jersey Connection - V4
Wildfire - V3
Wild Yet Tasty - V3/4
Disappearer - V10

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Post by vertical1 » Wed May 26, 2010 4:41 pm

What about Infectious? Thats a pretty hard start.

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Post by Meadows » Wed May 26, 2010 5:33 pm

Where is the "definite" crux on High Hard One?

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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Post by Rollo » Wed May 26, 2010 5:45 pm

anticlmber wrote: strevels-v4(if youve been bouldering, not as bad)
i don't get it... so if you boulder the scale is lower. "it's v4 for you but i've been bouldering so it's only a v2 for me."
And on the third day, God created the Red River Gorge(by conjecture), and he saw that it was good.

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Post by anticlmber » Wed May 26, 2010 6:05 pm

its v4, but feels harder than that if you've only been route climbing.
most of the 12a's i can think of are just chugging along, a lot of the 12b's are a kick in the nuts if thats all you've been doing.

tried this thing once, got shut down bad. left to go set in NC for a week, came back and destroyed it.

also the holds are just odd.
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Post by vertical1 » Wed May 26, 2010 7:40 pm

Any input on the start of Infectious, or Stay the Hand?

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Post by drifter » Wed May 26, 2010 10:57 pm

Meadows wrote:Where is the "definite" crux on High Hard One?
Sorry, I was thinking of Crime Time. High Hard One is sort of hard at the 2nd bolt but not that bad.

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Post by camhead » Thu May 27, 2010 6:39 am

vertical1 wrote:Any input on the start of Infectious?
v4+

Maybe a bit height dependent, and definitely easier once you figure out the beta.
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Post by THB » Thu May 27, 2010 11:20 am

Ro - V2
Infectious - V3
Samurai - V3/4
Tissue Tiger - V2
Iniquity (Start) - V4
Iniquity (Upper Crux) - V2
Hellraiser - V4
Buff the Wood - V2/3
Jet Lag - V3 (i'm joking... this is a knock on myself)
......I'm all for the downgrades! Let's not let peoples egos get too big! When someone says boulder problem I think about the crux of a route if I do it off the ground... If you climb 60 feet of 5.11 climbing and then do a V3 crux... it might feel like a V5, but it's not!

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Post by tejas » Thu May 27, 2010 10:36 pm

Tissue Tiger – V3
Tuskan Raider - V5
Jersey Connection-2/3
wild yet tasty-v2
jesus wept-technical v3
table of colors-v5/6
strevels gets in shape-v4
The Legend-v6/7
Nagypapa-v8/9
gung ho-v2
infectiousv2
blood bath (low percentage) v4
mama benson-v3
kaleidoscope-v5
hoofmaker-v4
tic tac toe- v3

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Post by Redpoint » Tue Jun 01, 2010 12:20 pm

Pogue Ethics - V0 But I've heard that's only if you go directly up the center of the crux. Left is probably 5.6 climbing, and the right felt like 5.9+.

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Post by vertical1 » Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:59 am

What is Strevels to the first set of anchors?

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Post by JR » Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:12 am

12b or V5 for me.

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