Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby lena_chita » Thu Feb 09, 2012 11:22 am

anticlmber wrote:tic-tac-toe-v3/4(depends on beta) scissor-v3
Ro-v2/3
strevels-v4(if youve been bouldering, not as bad)
wild-v3
jersey-v4/5
aqua-v2
aural pleasur-v3
to defy-v1
relaxed atmo-v3
hippocrit-v13


No way is Ro or Wild Yet Tasty harder than V2.
Jersey V5, height dependent
Aquaduck and Relaxed Atm-- V1, height dependent.

I am assuming you are joking about To Defy (V0-? VB? maybe? The V scale doesn't go there.)

But I'm with you on Hippocrite V13. :)
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby caribe » Thu Feb 09, 2012 11:34 am

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=en ... QLQGw&NR=1
Bouldering vs. climbing . . . hear it from John Gill.
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby camhead » Thu Feb 09, 2012 11:49 am

This chart is kind of a cool approach to the subject of this thread, showing the spread of different v-cruxes through different routes.

Image

From
http://peripheralscrutiny.blogspot.com/2011/06/landscape-new-look-at-route-grades.html
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby tH1e-swiN1e » Sun Feb 12, 2012 7:45 pm

^^ That chart is awesome. Im sure, for most of us, this isnt the first time this has come up in conversation.
More Altitude, Less Attitude.
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby toad857 » Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:54 am

Yeah, cool chart. The x-axis should be simply "route length", though. It would be more objective that way, and you would *instantly* see the niche that the red fills
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby clif » Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:06 am

it's so easy to do triaxilated (ha) graphs, i agree length could be one axis, but maybe continuity/consistency could be third, leaving the v as the 3rd.
training is for people who care, i have a job.
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby camhead » Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:14 am

clif wrote:it's so easy to do triaxilated (ha) graphs, i agree length could be one axis, but maybe continuity/consistency could be third, leaving the v as the 3rd.


Yeah, I think that a length axis, and a consensus v-rating axis might make that graph a bit more objective, to the point of it not needing a "continuity/consistency" axis. Though if one really wanted to get fancy, the third axis could be something like the angle of the climb.

I've got no graphing skillz, but someone else who has too much time on their hands should put together a graph like this for all the RRG routes, based on the consensus (haha!, yeah right!) ratings in this thread.

Oh, and what do y'all think the upper crimp section of Tuna Town would be if it were an off-the-ground boulder problem? I've heard everything from v3 to v1.
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby Andrew » Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:28 am

V1
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby Shamis » Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:51 am

Can't comment on most, but:

Start of iniquity: v3 the first time I tried it (pre-FA), then a hold broke, and it became v4. Then another foot nubbin broke, and I think it was v5, no idea what it is now.
Ro - v3
tic tac toe - v4
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby tbwilsonky » Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:53 am

when i'm on a route i do not think about difficulty. instead i think about the flow of the vibes and the vibration of the flows.

it. is. intense.
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby toad857 » Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:58 am

No harder than V3, and probably only V2.

If we could generate some crux-difficulty data, a graph for the 11's, 12's and 13's at the red would be really fun to look at. Besides, I'm sure most of us really don't care how Lucifer, Jaws, and Ali-hulk compare with each other--I already know; they're equally hard as shit.
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby JR » Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:44 pm

One-Fall wrote:Anybody throw out V-grades of cruxes on:

No Redemption
Take That Katie Brown
Cat's Demise

Big thanks!



No Redemption V6

Cat's Demise Harder than V6
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby camhead » Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:21 pm

How about Prometheus? Those precise moves about midway up to the pockets seemed solid v5 or so.
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby JR » Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:15 pm

I'll give you that...Nothing harder than v5 on Prometheus. Same with Name Dropper but Name Dropper is twice as sustained.
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Re: Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Postby tH1e-swiN1e » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:25 pm

Man, I thought bouldering was my thing but some of these numbers being thrown around are making me feel weak as hell lol.
Ill agree with V3 on Ro.
Hippocrite V5? Id say V4 at most.
What does everyone think of Hellraiser? Ive heard everything from V3-7, I think solid V5/+.
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